Jake and Ben Fetzer have a big name to live up to. Third generation wine royalty, they grew up as members of the Mendocino powerhouse Fetzer family. Now, they are making their own name with some great Mendocino pinot noir.
The winery is located in the tranquil hills of Mendocino, in a barn that their father, Bobby Fetzer, build from recycled redwood. Now, this barn serves as a rustic backdrop full of family memories, for their winery.
Clinging to winemaking’s past, Masut makes small production pinot noir with all the benefits of the modern world. Hand punch downs and the use of a fair bit of native yeast give the wines a different flavor profile than one might expect.
Founded in 2009, the property was planted in 1997 by Jake, Ben and Bobby and has 23 acres in 13 blocks, of 777,115, and 113 clones. With the cool coastal weather
Masút Vineyard and Winery produces estate Pinot Noir from grapes grown on a hillside vineyard in Mendocino County’s coastal mountains. Brothers Ben and Jake Fetzer are the owners, growers and winemakers.
The 2011 Estate Pinot Noir is a blend of all 13 blocks. 2011 was another cool growing season for
pinot noir, something that I love, because I think it produces a clearer, crisper, acid laced product. Hand sorted and destemmed, the Estate spent 11 months sleeping in 35% new French oak. One of the signatures of Masut, the wine sat sur lie for an extended time, and was bottled unfined and filtered. A gorgeous deep ruby, the nose is jumping out of the glass with sour cherry and spice. Rich, but full of bright red fruit, there is an underlying note of root beer and forest floor, covered with green peppercorn and baking spice. A baby, this wine has huge potential and I can’t wait to taste it again in 6 months. Well balanced and integrated.
I will admit, I was not the biggest fan of the first two vintages – The 2009 was full of oak (at 55% new French I am not surprised) that totally killed the fruit. The 2010 was more integrated but just wasn’t…there yet. I am going to go wine spelunking to see if I can find the vertical, to see how they are developing!
Block 1 – is dense, bold, and full of dark cherries. Touches of rhubarb and cherry pie filling round out this workhorse. All clone 115, red fruit and aromatic floral delight.
Block 7 – The Block 7 bright, with zesty cranberry and bright red fruit. I love this wine! The 115 adds complexity and acid to the bold cherry notes, and hints of root beer and white pepper are showing through, and even though it’s aged in 100% new oak, it’s well integrated and I don’t find it overpowering (which is surprising given my adversity to oak). While you can sense the heavy oak on the nose, the palate is full of spice and orange pekoe tea. This will only get better.
The Block 11 comes out bold and rich, with Bing cherry and cola. It reminds me of Santa Lucia Highlands, wearing acid wash jeans. The tiny 1.75 acre block is planted with 100% 113, and this is another 100% new oak treatment. It’s a bruiser at 14.3% ABV, and shows brambley dark red and purple fruit. This wine is a good base for the Estate, but it’s not my favorite on it’s own.
2011 Block 13 is all earth, spice and mushrooms. All 777, it’s all oak, all the time (100% new oak for 11 months, like the Block 7 & Block 11). This wine grew on me; when I first opened her up, she was a bit quiet, and full of blackberry coulis. Tannic and bold, she mellowed out and became a velvety painting that was a beautiful companion to Downton Abbey.
All in all, I love where these wines are going. I’m impressed at the single block offerings, and while surprised at the use of a large oak tree in each barrel, Jake & Ben know how to make good use of that wood. The flavors are well integrated and will only get better. The Estate blend takes the best part of each block and creates a single masterpiece, where each block can sing her praises in harmony.
These wines were provided for review by the winery. I thank you and cant’ wait for more! Oh wait, I mean the next release.