Expression is in the eye of the drinker
What do you think about when you think about wine? Flavor, name, price? When I think about wine, I think about location. Where is it from? Is it from a vineyard I know? An area that I’m fond of? Somewhere new? All of these things are characteristics of wine that peak my curiosity, and make me want to know more.
I love wines that express their sites and show the uniqueness of the area. Luckily for me, there are winemakers that are as driven and curious as I am. In this case, Matt Licklider and Kevin O’Connor of LIOCO, who founded the winery with the fundamentoal idea that wine should be an expression of terroir. in this case, Matt Licklider and Kevin O’Connor wanted to express the unique charachteristics of various terroirs of California Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, as well as a unique blend – Indica, a Rhone style blend.
By selecting the best possible fruit available from independent grape growers,, they are able to express control over their fruit and hone in on the exact fruit and characteristics that make the best wine. Through careful clonal selection, sustainable practices, and careful site selection, the wines are born in the vineyard.
Moving indoors to the winemaking itself, using wild yeast in hand sorted grapes, with very little oak treatment, you get unique, wild, clear representations of the fruit in each bottle. Having known about LIOCO since my early days of blogging, I was excited to have the opportunity to taste the latest releases.
First up, the fresh and lively 2012 Estero Russian River Valley Chardonnay. This blend of two vineyards, both in Russian River Valley, reflects the cooling influence of the sites, low in elevation and susceptible to the fog fingers that linger in the mornings. This proximity to the ocean creates a need for longer hang time, delivering a strength in flavor and bright acidity that is so magical in this wine. This is what chardonnay should be: expressive, bright, fruit driven. Vinified in all neutral oak, the selection of blocks for the Estero is very specific, with all other lots going in to the Sonoma County bottling. The Estero is showing Meyer lemon, lemon curd, fresh cream, underripe nectarines, fresh cream, and a flinty mineral finish that dances on your palate. For $35, I’d drink this all day.
Next, two Pinot Noirs from different areas of California. The first, the 2012 Laguna Sonoma Coast, is a blend of the Teach-Mor and Hirsch vineyards, both from the extreme Sonoma Coast. This wine is everything I love about Sonoma Pinot Noir, with tangy, hibiscus and bright cherry filled bursts of flavor, with forest aromas of cedar and mushroom. Fermented from wild yeast, the fruit was fermente with 30% whole cluster bunches. With vineyards in the fog catching zone, the cool temperatures create the bright red fruit and zingy acidity that I love so mcuh. This wine was not long for the table as we drank it quickly and happily, but it will age well and the big black raspberry and pomegranite notes are tasty with Thai curry and anything bacon. Yum! At $38 it’s an affordable luxury.
The second Pinot is from the Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, south of San Francisco at at elevation. The 2012 Saveria Vineyard Pinot Noir is also 30% whole cluster, and is unfined and unfiltered. Finding fruit from a well kept secret in the Saveria Vineyard 6 miles from the Pacific Ocean, clones 115, 667 and 777 are cooled by constant morning fog and a diurinal swing of ~40 degrees. That ocean is fickle she is! Aromas of gingerbread and Christmas trees are followed by flavors of balsamic strawberries, rose hips, cranberry sauce with orange zest and black cherry. The juicy red fruit lingers with the spice box on the finish that is just wonderful, with a touch of cedar smoke lingering on my palate. A splurge at $50, this would be a wonderful wine with your Easter ham.
The wines of LIOCO bring back the true meaning of terroir, and what it means to be a winemaker and not a wine factory. WIth so many wineries tryign to achive continutity year after year, makign a product that is a known entity, LIOCO strives to go beyond that and focus on expressing the fruit as much as they can. Every vineyard and every vintage demands different treatmetn, and deserves careful attention and focus through bottling. These guys are doing it right. Balance, flavor, uniqueness.
If you would like to visit the winery, it is located in an urban wine ghetto in Santa Rosa, CA. Open by appointment only, you can find them at liocowine.com.
These wines were provided by the PR company for consideraton, but I have been known to buy a bottle or two of LIOCO myself. After this trio, I will buy a bottle or three more!