A trip to Iberia within reach
Markus Bokisch was raised in California, but has a long history of ties to Spain. As a child, Markus spent his summers there, and as is the norm in European tradition, water & wine were served at meals.
With this pre-disposition to love the rich wines of Spain, Markus moved to Spain with his wife Lisa and worked his way up in the Spanish wine industry. With endeavors in Raimat and Penedes, he became and expert at the cultivation of these special varietals. When he moved back to California, he knew that Lodi had something special – hidden behind 100 years of old Italian field blends and Zinfandel, and that it was the perfect location to begin his endeavor with Iberian varietals.
The Terra Alta Vineyard in Clements Hills was the first property they purchased, wherethey imported Spanish budwood to firmly root Bokisch as the go to resource for these plantings. In 1999, they planted Las Cerezas Vineyard, which is the motherblock, planted to Tempranillo, Albarino, and Graciano – classic Spanish grapes. Two years later, the first vintage of Bokisch Vineyards wine was released.
Today, Bokisch grows over 2500 acres under vine, and works with wineries all over California in addition to producing their own wine. With a careful consideration for the environment and sustainability, they are making a mark on how viticulture can be beneficial for the land as well as the economy.
I first tasted Bokisch wine shortly after that initial release, when I was part of the now (sadly) defunct Wine Q wine service. I knew immediately, even though my palate was still developing in those early years of my wine career, that I would love what was to come.
Here we are, 8 years later, and I am lucky enough to taste the current releases of Bokisch frequently through a variety of tastings. On this day, we enjoyed two different Albarinios – the first being from the Terra Alta Vineyard, where the tasting room is located, and the second from Las Cerezas, that motherblock planted in 1999. While they were both welcome refreshers on this warm day, the Las Cerezas edged out the Terra Alta, with intensely tropical notes, and juicy fruit with lime zest and firm minerality on the finish.
Next, the Garnacha Blanca – a personal passion of mine – was a clear expression of how terroir impacts the finished product. The medium body was full of fresh stone fruit, oranges, and pungent green herbs. The creamy finish is perfect for cheese, hearty fish dishes, and just plain summer sipping. Stylistically, Garnacha Blanca tends to be bolder than it’s cousin Grenache Blanc, and I appreciate the weight and texture.
The last of the whites, the age old question of Verdelho vs. Verdejo. Often confused as the same grape, Verdelho has roots in Portugal and is used widely in Madeira. In contrast, Verdejo is a Spanish white grape, which has been traced back to North Africa, and is now widely grown in Rueda. Confused? Well, taste them side by side and you can see the differences.