After the mayhem of the Wine Bloggers Conference had subsided a bit, the #QBP (and token Joe) decided to stick around a bit longer an enjoy the relative peace of Los Olivos on a Sunday afternoon. As luck would have it, fearless leader Melanie had arranged for a visit to Refugio Ranch Winery for some tasting and tweeting. As we gathered in Los Olivos to relax in the Montana style hunting lodge tasting room, I could tell it was going to be a great visit. But the tasting room was only the beginning… In 2005, owner Kevin and Niki Gleason found the 415 estate property, which they planted to 26 acres of vines. Intending to maintain the property, tucked behind the town and well hidden form any view or civilization, the estate ranch is a piece of history that is truly stunning to enjoy. Our group was whisked away from the tasting room and taken through the winding roads of the Santa Ynez hills, stepping back in time as we drove farther out of time. Approaching the retreat house, you can see the prime acreage planted to Rhone grapes, and the careful maintenance of the land is evident by the sprawling gardens, oak trees, and agriculture use. There is no monoculture here. The Grape Whisperer, aka vineyard manager Ruben Solorzano, carefully selected blocks and varieties that he thought would best suit the property. Winemaker Ryan Deovlet began producing these amazing wines in 2011, and together with the Gleasons, they have created a small slice of heaven. Tucked away on the ranch, the guest house is a rustic reminder that this is still a weekend retreat for the family. Sitting on the porch, overlooking the ranch, you might think you were an extra in Little House on the Prairie – except the wine in your hand will make you forget about everything modern, sit back, and relax. It’s no coincidence that you feel your inner cowgirl / cowboy coming out on this property, much like a back lot at Universal Studios, as Refugio Ranch was an untouched cattle ranch that had been in operation for centuries. The transition to vineyards was a natural one, but the owners are carefully maintaining the native habitats and ecosystems, while using the best pieces for vineyards – maintaining a clear balance between past, present, nature, and man. Refugio Ranch is the only vineyard on this side of the Santa Ynez River, and gently rolls up from teh river to the ridge. With only 26 acres planted, it’s hard to spot the vines, but easy to taste the terroir that makes this property unique. The prime area is only 6 miles from the ocean, and is planted in salty, ancient sandy loam – the result of ancient sea beds, and long term drought. This area of Santa Ynez gets very little fog in the morning, but a lot in the evening, lending a cooling influence perfect for those Rhones. Keeping in tune with the cowboy theme, […]
Wrapping up my week in Buellton at the Wine Bloggers Conference, the focal tasting seminar on Ballard Canyon and its Syrah was the highlight of the conference for me. One of the newest AVAs, Ballard Canyon was established within the Santa Ynez Valley in 2013. Long known as an excellent source for Grenache and Syrah, the area is a long, thin canyon running north to south in a curving line. This orientation shelters it from much of the wind and cooling breezes that the rest of Santa Ynez experiences making it an excellent location for the richer, bolder Rhone red grapes. Ballard Canyon has come in to it’s own, now with a brand identity as “The Syrah AVA”. The panel discussion that we attended at WBC included a tasting of 6 Syrahs from the area, as well as an in depth look at the AVA and those wines. We were able to taste along with some rock star winemakers and growers from Beckmen, Harrison-Clarke, Jonata, Kimsey, Larner, Rusack, Saarloos & Sons, and Stolpman. Syrah is coming of age today, and has been called one of the most electrifying wines in the US. With an AVA that hsa ideal conditions to grow it, Ballard Canyon has become the Syrah AVA. Syrah can be vastly different depending on cool vs warmer climate growing regions, and Ballard Canyon creates some of the best cool climate Syrah in California. With approximately half of the AVAs vines planted to Syrah, vintners are able to focus of the microclimates within the canyon, and create excellence in style. The wines coming out of this region are cool climate wines, which are moderated by the warmer climates surrounding it; with the wind, weather, and sandy soils dominating Ballard Canyon, Syrahs from this area are broad and distinctive, with a mix of characteristics that you can only find here. Some quick notes of the wines we tasted: Rusack Wines – Lighter and fresh, with wonderful acid and deep red and blue fruit. Kimsey – Rocking in the glass with chocolate dried fig, and espresso Harrison-Clarke Wine – Bursting with ripe bosenberry, blueberry and espresso notes, followed by a black raspberry finish Jonata – co-fermented with 5% of Viognier, blackberry, dark chewy beef jerky, tobacco lead, aromatic and dense. The over whelming these of these wines are that you have deep complexity, richness, as well as acid which balances the wine. The large diurnal shift in temperatures allows for both ripe bold flavors, as well as maintaining the acidity levels, which produces wines with more structure and interest than a warmer climate Syrah. Ballard Canyon is the place to be, and I can’t wait to taste more wines from this region!
After our #QPB left Los Olivos and settled back in to WBC mode, we had one more adventure to see too before the official conference began. Earlier this year, I was thrilled to be a guest of the San Francisco Wine School’s inaugural 3-day intensive California Wine Appellation Specialist (CWAS) program, for which I know hold the credential (97 baby!). With the NorCal Wine luminary Fred Swan leading the way, SF Wine School and several illustrious Santa Barbara County wineries converged on Dierberg Star Lane Vineyard in Happy Canyon to present a special deep dive class in to the terroir, viticulture, and wines of Santa Barbara County. This was an amazing way to kick off the weekend in Buellton, and firmly planted Santa Barbara’s diverse growing regions as one of my favorite California wine regions in my personal wine bible. In the county, there are many well known areas – Sideways made Los Olivos, Buellton, and Solvang famous, along with Santa Ynez. But there are also many lesser known areas, such as the tiny Happy Canyon or newly AVA’d Ballard Canyon, that produce amazing wines as well. As with many areas that are now firmly rooted in wine culture, Santa Barbara’s first plantings were by the missionaries; in this case Junipero Serra arrived in 1782, prior to establishing the mission in 1786. Santa Barbara became the center of the mission winemaking culture, with 45 vineyards, 260 acres and 17 winemakers, but of cousre all of that died when Prohibition came in to place. Wine stayed dead in Santa Barbara until well in to the 1960s, when the Amerine Winkler Scale identified the region as perfect for viticulture. Growing slowly but steadily, by the 1980s, there were 13 wineries, and by the 1990s, that number tripled. Today, there are over 100 wineries, 21,000 planted acres, and 5 AVAs (with more pending). Today, with so many microclimates, there are diverse varieties, styles, adn philosphies in the region. There is so much more here than just Pinot Noir Miles! With it’s proximity to the Pacific Ocean, Santa Barbara County has a unique terroir, in part due to the transverse range that suddenly hangs a left at Albequerque and heads east, away from the ocean. With foggy, cool breezes, and coastal influences, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay thrives on the west end, while Rhone varieties and Cabernet Sauvignon seek sun and warmth on the east end, away from the coastal influence. While there are too many AVAs within the county to talk about in detail in this post, I will give you more detail on a few. First, Pinot Powerhouses Santa Maria and Sta. Rita Hills. Santa Maria Valley is one of the few AVAs that straddles counties. With it’s cooling breezes and foggy days, Santa Maria is one of the rare AVAs that has dry farmed vineyards, thanks to 14 inches of rain a year (ok not this year but…). I love the Pinot Noirs from this area because of the high acidity, bright red […]
After #GoingRogue with Tercero, it was time to meander down the road a bit to Beckmen Vineyards, were the #QBP had a barrel tasting arranged with Keana and Beckman winemaker, Mikel Sigouin. I first met Mikel last year at Rhone Rangers in San Francisco, and when I mentioned that some wine bloggers were going to be in his neighborhood, he eagerly invited us to taste through his wines. Mikael, a native of Hawaii, makes wines for Beckmen Vineyards by day, and Kaena Wines by night, so I knew this would be a golden opportunity to taste some world class Grenache. Little did I know that we would taste through more wines than I thought possible, each one more unique and delicious than the last! But before we started this barrel adventure, we had to make our way out of Los Olivos, and down the road to Beckmen. As I attempted to corral the #QPB out of the door of Tercero, what would appear to our wandering eyes but Frank Morgan – the erstwhile Drink What You Like Virginian. If you are not familiar with this breed of wine blogger, it is a unique one; this breed mysteriously appears when least expected and is amiable to almost any activity. Since we were a posse of all girls, Melanie and I shouted out the car window for Frank to get in the car. A few hollers later, some coming from the mobile command center of Brix Chicks Liza, the unwitting Frank hopped in the car. It was clear from the look on his face that he was wondering how the wine mafia had tracked him to tiny Los Olivos. Was it an ex-girlfriend? Someone who didn’t appreciate his reviews? No, it was just the #QBP, wine-napping him for an afternoon of delights. A few miles later, we met back up at the winery and began tasting our way through the barrels. Here in the expansive barrel room, it’s hard to tell where Beckmen ends and Keana starts, a clear marker of how there is little separation in this extended family. When the Kaena brand was launched in 2001, it was to express Mikael’s passion for Grenache. The name itself, Kaena, shows his spirit, with it’s meaning of “potential for greatness” and brings back Mikael’s Hawaiian culture. Honing in on his obsession with Grenache, he has made a name for himself as the Grenache King, but hasn’t limited his style and influence on the other wines of Keana. While Grenache is certainly one of my favorites, I cannot slight the other wines that he had his hand in. As we meandered the barrel room, tasting a bit of this and a bit of that, it was difficult to tell any favorites since they were all so good. As they age in the barrels for the next year or two, I look forward to a return visit to see how they are developing. On this trip, I was intoxicated at the vastness of the selection, and focused on the nuances of barrel […]
I love Grenache, Garnacha, Garnatxa. There are so many variations that it’s hard to keep track! From the Rhone to California to the desert crumbled hills of Priorat, Grenache and I have a love affair. Grenache even has it’s own day, in late September, where lovers from around the world converge on Twitter (#GrenacheDay) to compare tasting notes and host parties. It was on that very day that I tasted the Shatter Grenache. Shatter is a partnership between Dave Phinney of Orin Swift Cellars and Joel Gott of Joel Gott Wines. Shatter is their first project together, and it is created in the small town of Maury, in the Roussillon Region of France. The hillside vineyards are planted in black schist, similar to slate, that is widely known in the area to produce wonderful Rhone wines. The poor nutrients in the soil allow the grapes to ripen slowly, through cooler nights and hot days. This big red bruiser is full of dark cherry and pepper, plums and spice. It was slightly flabby at first, but had a nice black pepper note to it that is a classic Grenache profile. Yum! Big, bold, and classic California in style This wine was provided for tasting on #GrenacheDay. My apologies for being a slow poke!
When I first met Angela Osbourne, she was working with the Natural Process Alliance (NPA) in Santa Rosa in 2010. I had the opportunity to taste some of her early incarnations and knew we were in for a treat. Originally from New Zealand, Angela moved to California in 2006 to pursue her love of Grenache. In 2007, Angela found her first fruit from the Santa Barbara Highlands Vineyard, which is located 33 miles from the Pacific Ocean, in a high desert landscape. For a heat loving varietal like Grenache, this is the perfect location. At 3200 feet, the Santa Barbara Highlands Vineyard is located in an arid and hot climate, with cool snowy winters. Sustainably farmed and planted for the site specifics, the vineyard has 12 varietals with Grenache only being 4% of the total planted land. with 5 clones of Grenache, only 5 winemakers are making Grenache from this site. 100% Grenache, A Tribute to Grace is a lighter style Grenache, with a pungent strawberry punch at the beginning. This is a fresh, lively wine, that shows off dry earth and red fruit in a fresh mouth full of flavor. With a touch of spice on the finish and more red raspberry up front, this wine is 50% whole cluster fermented which Angela ligihtly treaded on daily. At least I hope it was Angela doing the treading! The other 50% was destemmed and the resultling wine is a lively fun, refreshing Grenache with the backbone whole cluster provides. The use of whole clusters changes the flavor profile, tannin structure and aromas of a resulting wine, so by blending in a classically destemmed portion, Angela achieve a balance that creates a lovely wine. Check it out!
Belle Glos Pinot Noir are wines made for Cabernet lovers. While each of the three vineyards used to make these wines is coastal, they all produce very different wines. The Wagner family is well known for their contributions to thee wine industry in Napa, through their efforts at Caymus Vineyards. Going back to the 1800s, the family has deep California roots. The family has been making wine in California since 1972, when Caymus was founded. Now, while the family seat is at Caymus in Napa, the additions of Mer Soleil Chardonnay, run by son Charlie Wagner, Belle Glos run by son Joseph Wagner, and Conundrum, a blend mastered by longtime employee, and new places for daughters Jenny and Erin to learn the business, the family of wine has grown. There is a history of experimentation and creativity, which led Belle Glos to break the traditional mold of California Pinot Noir. Joseph’s passion for farming and viticulture is well known. His early experiences with this Italian Grandmother helps guide his future as he expanding the success of the Belle Glos line, that he has managed since 2002. Belle Glos, featuring single-vineyard Pinot Noirs from Sonoma, Monterey, and Santa Barbara counties was named for Joseph’s grandmother, he has selected three of the coolest growing regions for the Pinot Noir. farmed in small lots, the grapes are left to hang longer than normal, to create intense and complex flavors. In this manner, they are creating bold, flavor packed Pinots that are setting Belle Glos apart from more traditional styles. There are three single vineyard Pinots from Belle Glos: Clark & Telephone, Taylor Lane and Las Alturas. Each one is slightly different, but all three are made in a big, bold style. A Pinot meant for a Cabernet lover! Clark & Telephone Vineyard is located in the Santa Maria Valley, which is cooled by the wind and fog blowing in from the Pacific Ocean along the Santa Maria River inland. Planted on its own roostock, the vineyard is planted to 100% Martini clone, something that is rarely seen today. This wine was a mix of sweet ripe red fruit and spicy notes, with a nice acid balance. It was my favorite of the three, and had a lot of cinnamon, baking spice, and ripe blackberry notes. The Taylor Lane Vineyard Pinot from the Sonoma Coast, is less than 6 miles from the ocean. Known for the heavy fog, it’s a particularly good place for classic Pinot due to the cool climate, but harder if you are trying to ripen the fruti for a stylistic change. The Dijon clones in this vineyard held a lot of cedar and cola, with Bing cherries and a hefty 60% new French oak treatment. This would have been my pick but because of the oak it was just too overblown for me. Finally, the Las Alturas Vineyard in the Santa Lucia Highlands. Located in a world famous Pinot Noir growing region in the Central Coast area, each slope of the vineyard was planted […]