When you think of Prosecco, most often, you probably think of the inexpensive fizz that is poured at brunch, with a bottomless mimosa, or as an everyday drink . I admit, I was no big fan of Prosecco before I experienced the journey I’m going to share with you. Made in the bulk, or Charmat method, the bubbles tend to be large, the flavor is – to say the least- unique, and it tended to be a bit low brow. Or so I thought. Enter #winestudio this year, when I was exposed to the changing face of Prosecco and the new DOCG: Prosecco Superiore. The Prosecco Superiore DOCG has elevated the art and style of Prosecco to be not only more competitive with other sparkling wines of the world, such as American sparkling wine and Champange, but also raised the standards of quality and taste within the category. There are three DOCGs for Prosecco, Conegliano Valdobbiandene Superiore which encompasses 15 communes, Conegliano Valdobbiandene Superiore Rive, in which wines must be made from a very specific commune or vineyard, and Valdobbiandene Superiore di Cartizze, which is about 107 hectares. All of these DOCG areas are smaller, and technically a subset of the larger Prosecco DOC, which also includes the Prosecco DOC Treviso and Asolo Prosecco DOCG. Confused yet? Let’s just think of it as concentric circles, where the outer ring is Prosecco DOC, and the DOCGs are smaller, inner rings, where the DOCGs fit snuggly in the center side by side. This handy graphic above from the Prosecco folks explains it much better: Located a short 50 kilometers from Venice, Conegliano Valdobbiandene is a steeply hilled area of 15 small commnues that was originally recognized as a DOC in 1969. When, as Italy does, the communues and productions area rules were refined and revised in 2009, the area was upgraded to a DOCG, recognizing the highest quality wines. Having had the opportunity to taste through he portfolio of both Nino Franco, as well as the vast variety of several producers from Conegliano Valdobbiadene (more on that later), I am excited at the endless styles and improved quality this Italian sparkler has to offer. These wines were provided by the winery, PR agency, and #winestudio in consideration for participation in the weekly online tastings at #winestudio. Some participants paid a fee to receive certain wines. Before we get in to the deails of Nino Franco, let’s review what makes Prosecco Prosecco. By definition, is not Champagne. While the term Champagne is often used like Coke for soda, or Kleenex for tissues, it is in fact a proprietary name based on the region and a few additional factors. Prosecco is much the same. The most obvious difference is that Prosecco is from Italy, but it is also produced from a particular white grape – glera. Glera is a white grape that is thought to have originated in Slovenia. Until 2009, Glera was referred to as Prosecco in that region of Italy, making for a somewhat confusing […]
This sample was provided by Wines of Germany for consideration. There is something magical in the wines of Germany. From pinot blanc, to the hidden gems of pinot noir, there is something for everyone. This rich white, from the Pfalz region of Germany, is from a compact yet importnat area meandering through some of the most fertile land in the area. One of Germany’s largest and most important wine producing regions, it sits between the Rhine and the Haadt mountains in a compact 45 long by 15 miles wide. While only 40% of the wines from this region are red, pinot noir is becoming increasingly more important here. Generally known for it’s table wine products (Landwin and Deutscher Wein), but the increase in pinot noir has made it a very popular region. Given it’s proximity to Alsace, the varietals planted and the culture is very similar. Pfalz has a warmer, dry climate, which gives rise to a richer, more concentrated wine style then it’s neighbors. Additionally, the vineyards are clusted at hte base of the Weingut von Winning was founded in 1849 and is planted to 158 acres, focused on riesling. They also product sevearl other varieties, and The Von Winning Weissburgunder II is a delicious oaky rendition of pinot blanc. The pale gold color looks like it would be sprightly, but the rich peach and stone fruit shows off a touch of salinity at the finish. Mouthwatering spice notes from the oak make me want to go back for more. This would be a lovely wine with your holiday ham, or for those red wine drinkers who prefer a richer white. $30
While most people know of Rioja, and Cava, fewer people know of the secret delights of DOP Cariñena. Cariñena is not only just a town, it’s a varital grape, an appellation, and a region. Located in Aragón (yes, that Aragón), it sits just about halfway between Madrid and Barcelona in Spain’s northeast tip. It’s one of the oldest DOPs in Spain, earning that distinction in 1932. Of particular note, there is no other region that is named for it’s primary grape. There is no Merlot, no Cabernet, and no Chardonnay region. There isn’t even a Garnacha region, though much of Cariñena is planted with Grenache. That is part of what makes Cariñena so special. Another reason why wines from Cariñena are so district is the ancient vines – most averaging 40-100 years old. 2014 Corona D Aragon Special Selection – a blend of Garnacha and Cariñena, these 40 year old vines are planted between 500-700 meters. The intensity of flavor from both the age and elevation is evident, and this rich red shows baking spice, prune, ripe blackberry, and campfire smoke. Black cherries and dark raspberries peek through cinnamon sticks and a surprising acidity brightens the whole game. For those of you looking for a great red wine at a fantastic price, pick up some Cariñena! Most bottle are between $10-15, and are a fantastic value that will let you travel to Spain in your wine glass. At once bold but bright, these wines are to be savored and go well with red meat, rich sauces, or a cool fall evening. Enjoy! Thank you Gregory White PR for this eye opening bottle of yum!
When I was first introduced to Onward Wines, I was intrigued by the thought of three wines made from Malvasia Blanca, as I thought of how to approach a piece on unique wines for weekend brunching. I love Malvasia, and there is really none to speak of in the US – save this little patch of land in Contra Costa County. Further investigation in to Faith Armstrong Foster’s wines, however, revealed wines that are expressive of terroir in its purist form, quality, uniqueness, and a sense of place in every glass. Onward 2015 Pétillant Naturel, Malvasia Bianca, Capp Inn Ranch, Suisun Valley Beginning with the beguiling Pétillant Naturel, made from Malvasia Bianca, the Onward selections express freshness that can often get lost in the shuffle. Pet-Nat, a fun, rustic take on sparkling wine, captures bubbles the old fashioned way. Bottling these wines before primary fermentation occurs, without the addition of a dosage or yeast, Malvasia Blanca makes a natural muse for this style. With nutty Marzipan, hazlenut and lychee notes, complemented with Asian pear and honey, the Pet Nat holds peaches and brioche, with ah hint of ripe tuscan melon. There is a natural salinity coming fro the Malvasia, and a pinch of citrus zest to keep it fresh. This Pét-Nat is floral and fruity, but refreshingly bone-dry. The opening aromatics are like sticking your nose in a fermentation vat, with yeasty brioche notes and lively youthful freshness. To follow are notes of night blooming jasmine, citrus blossom, melon rind, warm Kaffir lime scones with preserved lemon…and a refreshing hint of sea air….and did I mention soft tiny delicate bubbles! Onward 2014 Malvasia Bianca, Capp Inn Ranch, Suisun Valley Like a summer day in a bottle, Malvasia Blanca jumps out of the glass with stone fruit, fresh and floral notes and a searing acidity to refresh your hot and dusty taste buds. The grapes were whole cluster pressed, adding much needed texture and tannin, the wine was finished in stainless steel while the lees were stirred every two weeks. Oh so very fresh and happy, kumquats and pears dance around golden delicious apples with a splash of fresh cream. Onward 2013 Pinot Noir, Hawkeye Ranch, Redwood Valley The often forgotten Redwood Valley, deep in the forests of Mendocino County, is an interesting growing region. With cooler than average temperatures, dense Redwood groves and chilly damp fog, it’s a challenging place to grow any wine – let alone pinot noir. But grow it does, and this example is a beautiful expression of cool climate pinot noir. Pale and clear, wild strawberries are front and center with bright hibiscus and Queen Anne cherries. Juicy pomegranate and rhubarb are rounded out with lingering methol and forest floor notes. Onward 2014 Carignane, Casa Roja Vineyard, Contra Costa County i love Carignane. It is one of those lost grapes of California, and was, at one point, a huge part of the old Italian field blends that helped to solidify the commercial wine industry in the state. Often overlooked, […]
When you think of a classic wine from Argentina, you probably think of Malbec. But would you also think of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and yes – even Merlot? What exactly is Cabernet’s role in Argentina anyway? Enter the upstart minds of Achaval-Ferrer. In 1995, the first twinkle in the eyes of the winery partners appeared, with their minds set to the gestalt of creating the best wines possible. In 1998, the first property was purchased, Diamonte Vineyard and the winery was founded. So, last month on #winestudio, we explored the wines of Achaval-Ferrer, from Malbec to Cab Franc, and what a journey it was! Wine Studio is an ongoing educational project that seeks to bring writers, wineries, and consumers together on Tuesday evenings on Twitter. For the month of April, we explored the wines of Achaval-Ferrer. My favorites of this series are outlined below. One Tuesday in April, which happened to be #worldmalbecday, we tasted two wines blind. Naturally we knew that they were 100%, or at least, significantly, malbec based, but what no one anticipated was that we were actually tasting two vintages of the same wine, with very different results. These wines were the 2012 & 2013 Quimera, named for the top of the line blend that is made, lke all good wine, in the vineyard. More than simply the sum of it’s parts, the blend varies ever so slightly every year but is always predominately Malbec. To showcase the other varietals that Achaval-Ferrer focuses on, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon is blended in. 2012 Quimera Earthy forest floor erupting n eucalyptus and menthol. Tobacco and dark chocolate mingling with blueberry and blackberry, with old fashioned black licorice on the finish. Astute and developed but can be cellared for years to come. $30 2013 Quimera (pre-release) Bursting with fruit, classic Malbec. Fresh plums, baking spice, hint of dried lavender and herbs de Provence. What we didn’t know at the time of tasting s that this was the same wine, same blend, but with vintage variation. According to the winemakers, 2013 was actually a clear year at the site, however, the fruit was showing more, undoubtedly due to it youth. So what is the point? The point is that wine is a living thing; wine changes in the bottle, but it changes in the vineyard. The same wine can be impacted by climate, localized weather, harvest conditions and so much more. Also, there is more to Argentina than fruit bomb Malbecs. While they are fun, and great for a party, there is more and more of a Bordeaux influence creeping in; this is natural given the origins of Malbec in Cahors (just south of Bordeaux) and it’s use in many Bordeaux blends. Stylistically, Malbec from France is quite different, but as time goes on and Argentinian wine grows up, you can see the development of these restrained and austere styles. So go out and taste some Argentinian blends! They are relatively inexpensive, and while not cheap (compared to many mass […]
When I first tasted the Sidebar Cellars Kerner, from the Mokelumne Glen vineyard in Lodi, I thought to myself, “wow this is a fun little white”, as I sat in the heat of Lodi in April. At that time, we were exploring the Mokelumne River AVA, and I didn’t make the connection to David Ramey of Ramey Cellars. Fast forward to 2016, and as I get my rosés ready to rumble, a little birdie told me that Sidebar Cellars did a rosé. Knowing how much I love pink wine around this time of year, I made sure I got my hands on one and I was glad I did! Sidebar Cellars was born out of Ramey’s desire to play around a bit, and presents a departure from the Ramey Wine Cellars more austere lineup of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Sauvignon; hence, Sidebar. The 2016 Sidebar Cellars Russian River Valley Rosé comes from an old-vine Syrah vineyard, and represents a refreshing change of pace from the more common place saignée (bleed off) Pinot Noir rosés, which while delicious, can get a little boring. Bursting with strawberry and peach on the nose, herbal rose hips and hibiscus came through on the palate. Tart plum skins and tannin give this wine some oomph, while ruby red grapefruit hides at the back f the palate, offering a refreshing finish. The zesty green apple and lime lingers on your palate with a hint of pickled watermelon rind, and keeps you going back for another sip. This is a great summer sipper and pairs surprisingly well with sriracha potato chips! It would also be an excellent match to your Easter Ham or a roast chicken. Special thanks to Alexandra O’Gorman, Communications Director at Ramey Wine Cellars for this delightful sample!
There is something about this time of year that is magical; cool foggy mornings and evenings are tempered with the mild warmth of daylight. The days are a touch longer, and we can be languid in the sunshine of the late afternoon. This is rosé season. Frankly, it’s always rosé season, but right now, in the promising first days of Spring, the wide rainbow of pale salmon, vibrant raspberry, and deep rose deliver a transitional beverage that is simply divine. Rose can be made from any varietal, but perhaps the most common is Pinot Noir. In 2016, Sonoma County’s Rodney Strnog Vineyards, which has been going strong for over 25 yeras, released their first rosé, expressly made from Pinot Noir grapes (no saignée here!). While Russian River Valley can produce Pinot Nori that is a bit too bold for my liking, this rosé is, simply said, perfect. Harvested at ~20 brix, the grapes kissed the skins for a mere nine hours as the whle clusters were pressed gently. Slowly fermented in a temperature controlled cellar, the pale salmon pink has hints of orange hues and golden rays of sunlight. Unlike many rosés of Pinot Noir, the first note is not strawberry or raspberry, but rather a savory one. Fresh green herbs meet jasmine and grilled peaches, while wild mountain strawberry dances on the tongue at the finish. An excellent late afternoon tipple on a warm day, especially sweet for the price of $25. Thanks to the cru at Rodney Strong for making this lovely wine, and sending me a sample!
When I was studying for my Certified Specialist of Wine credential, one of the most challenging regions for me was Germany. Not because of the wines specifically, as while there are some unusual varietals, most German wines are fairly well known, but for the simple reason that deciphering a German wine labels is an exercise in linguistics, frustration, and a pyramid that would make Giza look simple. The Rise of Riesling One of the most classic German wines is Riesling. Riesling is one of the most complex, diverse, and wondrous wines in the world, and I often want to say “taste the rainbow” when I think of Riesling. From bone dry, to sticky sweet, oily and petrol driven, to chalk and shale, Riesling is produced in a wide variety of styles. Understanding how to find the specific style you are looking for is part of the mystery and fascination of German wine. Cracking the Code Varietal The grape variety is clearly marked, so that’s easy. We have Riesling Must Weight Next, to determine the level of ripeness – or more technically the must weight of the harvested grapes (which really does not have any impact no sweetness of the finished wine), we look at the Prädikat level. For example, a Riesling picked at it’s fullest potential ripeness, or just a hare’s breath past late harvest, is known as Spätlese. If you’re looking for something that is picked below full ripeness, go for a Kabinett. For the sweet sticky beauty of a dessert wine, you want a wine that is at least Auslese, which is late harvest, but true stickies are Beerenauslese or Trokenbeerenauslese. Confusingly, Troken is also the word for “dry”. For this wine, it’s marked Spätlese, next to Riesling. Are you with me? How Sweet It Is Here we get to the tricky part. Since you need to determine the level of sweetness separately from the must weight, you need to classify the taste of the sugar content, using Troken (dry) or Feinherb (off-dry). This wine is dry, or Trocken. The relatively new Riesling Scale can help us Americans with these things. While some people disparage the International Riesling Foundation’s dumbing down of Riesling, at a simple level, it’s helpful. That said, remember that Riesling is a high acid grape. Acid balances sweetness, so that even a Medium Sweet Riesling may not play that tune when you are drinking it with maple smoked salmon. Are You A Good Witch, or a Bad Witch? Now that we understand what the flavor profile might be in the glass, we need to look at where it is from. The Qualitätswein (QbA) and Prädikatswein (QmP) designations denote quality wine and quality wine from a specific region, and table wine (Taflewein) and bulk wine (Landwein) are the lower brow everyday wines. This wine is Prädikatswein, a quality wine from a specific region The Mosel Right. So really, there are many layers of classification but once you understand the basis for categorization, you can generally interpret what to expect from the wine. […]
If you ask the average person about South Africa, typically you will hear Nelson Mandela, Apartheid, and Pinotage. If you ask a wine persona about South Africa, you are likely to hear Pinotage and Chenin Blanc. Chenin Blanc is a unique white wine, with origins in teh Loire Valley of France and is made is a wide variety of styles. In the South African wine growing regions, Chenin is king. With 60ish official appellations, and nearly 100,000 hectares plated to vine, wines range from average to exceptional. The Swartland region of the Western Cape winelands in South Africa, is one of the youngest wine regions in the country, and rapidly growing. The decomposing granite soils tumble off the low mountains in to a fertile valley that is prime for grapes. Planted in the 1950s and 1960s with Chenin Blanc, Cinsault, and Grenache, the Badenhorst is located in the Swartland region of the Western Cape, which is a younger wine region but growing. The decomposing granite and shale soils tumble off the low mountains in to a fertile valley that is prime for grapes. Co-owner Adi Badenhorst is a bit of rebel, taking the time to make even the smallest decision such as picking for peak freshness and blending choices. Raised in a farming community with his cousin Hein, they purchased the Kalmoesfontein farm in 2007 and set about restoring the badly neglected property. Modeling it on the farms they grew up on with an eye towards making natural wines, the Badenhorts maintain the old techniques of dry farming and hand foot crushing whole clusters. Using concrete tanks and large wooden vats for fermentation, these wines have a taste of yesterday, with earthy back to the earth flavors and mouthfeel. With his blends co-fermenting in a bit of a mish mash, Adi doesn’t using rules or classic winemaking by numbers to make his wine. Instead he relies on what nature has done n the field. 2012 AA Badenhorst Red Blend This complex blend of Cinsault, Grenache, Shriaz, Mouvedre and Tinta Barocca is a lovely representation of how Rhône varietals do well in many climates. You might know that Cinsault is one of the parent grapes of Pinotage, but here, it is an earthy backbone to this lush red wine and I love the flavors it imparts. Cinsault here, is an old school country grape, and was often used to make bulk or table wine. Today, is once again a premium grape. Aging in 4000 liter casks for 16 months, the oak is a very subtle note and not at all influential in this easy to drink red. The savory, smoke meat mingles with old leather and black tea while ripe blackberries layer with dried herbs for a pleasing, masculine blend. There is fruit here, but the key notes are savory and herbal which is a nice departure from a bold and bombastic Shiraz or Southern Rhone blend. The silky tannins finish with a minty fresh dusting of black pepper. The $30 price tag shouldn’t deter you […]
Driving along highway 116 in western Sonoma County, you may have driven by the former River Road Vineyards, now the Rubin Family Wines complex – a sprawling, aging wood complex including a restaurant and bar patio, as you head towards Forestville. This area of the Russian River Valley has been home to some of the world’s best pint Nor producers for decades, and while River Road Vineyards had been experiencing somewhat of an identify crisis in the mid 2000s, in 2011, the Rubin Family of Wines tok over the property. A particularly ideal place to grow Pinot Noir, the fog often lingers here beyond other area of Russian River, cooling down the vineyards and adding an earthy, acid driven profile to the wines. The Rubin Family of Wines is committed to producing exceptional wines. Sourced from both the River Road estate and other local sources, the Ron Rubin brand includes a Pinot Blanc and two Pinot Noirs, as well as a Chardonnay and Syrah. With specific attention paid to the vineyards and resulting wine, the dedicated winemaking team focuses on passion and precision. 2015 Ron Rubin Green Valley of Russian River Pinot Blanc Stainless steel fermented with a touch of neutral barrel blended in, this is a classic Pinot Blanc in style and weight. Ripe pear, juicy peach, crisp golden apples bathing in honeysuckle fields. Finishes with tart lime and bright acidity. A refreshingly low alcohol wine, it comes in at only 13.5% abv. The early harvest of 2015 came from Dutton Ranch’s Shop Block a mere 1.5 miles from the Rubin Estate, and since Pinot Blanc is unusual for Sonoma County, this was a rare treat (only 3.5 acres are planted in Green Valley). $30 2013 Ron Rubin Green Valley of Russian River Valley Pinot Noir A bold Russian River Pinot Noir with brown sugar, black cherry, and Dr. Pepper notes layering on top of chocolate mocha. Rich but still fresh with earth and wet leaves. I really wanted this wine to have more acid, but this is a crowd pleaser to be sure and would be popular at any gathering. Also low in alcohol, and unusually so given the region and the flavors, this clocks in at 13.7%. With a long and slow ripening season in Green Valley, the estate Pinot Noir is a mix of hand harvested clone 667, 115, 777 and Pommard. The Pommard adds a richness to the wine, with a soft and round body with the 9 months of French Oak give it the spice and vanilla backbone. $40 Special thanks to Jo Diaz of Diaz Communications for the hookup!
Here on the Left Coast, we do things a little differently. We may lean a little left, we may be innovative. And we certainly approach wine with a creative verve. Left Coast Cellars has been making world class wines in the southern Willamette Valley of Oregon since 2003. I was first introduced to Left Coast when I attended a conference in Oregon, and me Ivy Hover, DTC Manager and all around great gal. Committed to sustainability, Left Coast Cellars is certified.Salmon Safe, as well as LIVE and several other sustainably responsible certifications. With a wide variety of both Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, and other Oregon classics, the estate sits in the Van Duzer corridor, making it an idea place to grow these grapes. The cooler fog and breezes from the Pacific Ocean cool down the 9 vineyards and make it a magical spot. The Field of Dreams vineyard was planted in 2007, with Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay. Here, the rebel Pinot Meunier that I tasted was born. Left Coast Cellars Pinot Meunier is typically used in their sparkling wine, which is also common in Champagne, but they make a small amount of still Pinot Meunier and I was lucky enough taste it. Intensely earthy, with violets and cigar box flavors, this mutation of the Pinot Noir grape is simply stunning. For those wine lovers who don’t like Pinot Noir, seek out still Pinot Meunier. The richness and complex earthy spice will make your tongue dance with joy. One of the crowd pleasers is the budget friendly 2014 Left Coast Cellars Cali’s Cuvee Pinot Noir. Bottled under screw cap, this 100% Pinot Noir is bright, youthful and fun – and is a drink now style that will please even the pickiest pinot drinker. With tell tale Oregon brightness, the fuller boded blackberry, plum and bing cherry flavors float above the forest floor and spruce flavors that are so often a part of the Wädenswil clone that makes up part of the blend. $24 Stay tuned for more Left Coast Cellars reviews! Special thanks to Ivy for sending this yummy juice.
Nothing says festive like a bottle of sparkling wine. Whether you celebrate Christmas, Chanukah, Festivus, or any other holiday, we all love to ring in the new year with a sparkling libation. Sparking wines are made all over the world. From the world famous Champagne region in France, to surprising sparkling Shiraz from Australia, there are delicious options everywhere. But none of my favorite classic sparklers comes from Italy. No, it’s not Prosecco, or even Asti Spumante, but rather something that is made in the Methode Classico (or champagnoise), from the Lombardy region in the north: Franciacorta. I have been fortunate to experience the many colors and flavors of Franaciacorta with Franciacorta USA’s partnership with Balzac Communications. We have been treated to an annual tasting of several different examples of this iconic Italian bubbly; recently, I was able to attend an informal and delicious tasting of three very special wines at A16 in San Francisco. Frst up, one of my favorite producers from previous tastings, the Contadi Castalidi Franciacorta Brut Rosé NV, which is a blend of 35% Pinot Noir and 65% Chardonnay. This budget friendly pink is a great example of why you should pay attention to this region. With light fruity flavors, brioche notes, and velvety plum notes, you will love the holiday wallet friend price point of under $25. The next selection was a gorgeous 2012 Le Marchesine Saten, which in the DOGCG of Franciacorta, must be a Blanc de Blanc from Chardonnay and or Pinot Bianco (Blanc). Slightly more expensive than the the other two at $30, it’s still a very friendly price point for sparkling of this quality. With spicy white flowers and bright notes of citrus layered over fresh cream, this is the perfect mid point in this lovely trio of wines. Finally, the all-star of the evening was the Biondelli Franciacorta Brut, an elegant 100% Chardonnay start hat is bottled aged no less than 2 years. Officially certified organic since 2014, the 8 hectare vineyard is hand harvested and gently pressed and fermented in stainless steel barrels. The gorgeous floral notes of this sexy sipper give way to peach blossom, toasted almonds, hazelnuts, and just a hint of citrus. This is my top pick and even at an average price of $20 (if you can find it) you should be buying it by the case. Franciacorta is not the poor man’s Champange. Despite the user friendly price points on many of these fine wines, the quality and flavor profiles are world class. Franciacorta wines are widely available at better wine shops as well as online. Experiment, try a few, and enjoy this holiday season! Special thanks to Franciacorta USA for sharing these delights!
You might not expect a dark and delicious red wine to come from Oregon’s Applegate Valley, but Troon Vineyard’s 2013M&T Reserve is just that. This co-fermented blend of Tannat and Malbec is surprisingly low in alcohol at only 13.7%, but is rich in flavor! Intensely floral, full of black licorice and dried lavender on the nose, the palate is full of bold espresso, dark chocolate and dark berries. This is a lush wine but also has a beautifully ripe and bright strawberry finish, and is bursting with cracked pepper. As I sip this wine on a cool and foggy summer afternoon, I can’t help but think of how cozy it would be with a roaring fire and some roasted pork, orange and is perfect for some nice homemade lasagne. Thank you Troon and Craig Camp for sharing these lovely wines! Next up, we move backwards to the refreshing whites! Edit
When industry blogger and General Manager of Cornerstone Napa announced he was leaving California for the wilds of southern Oregon and Troon Vineyard, my first reaction was “what the heck?”. Craig Camp had been instrumental in exposing a luxury Napa Valley brand to a new world of wine drinkers, launching a sister label (Stepping Stone, which is now Cornerstone black label) and had become an essential member of the blogging community. It was with slight trepidation that I waited to hear about this new venture in Oregon. But, knowing Craig, I trusted that it would be magical. When the first updates started arriving, I knew we were in for a treat. Troon Vineyard has over 40 years of history in the upstart region of Southern Oregon. The original vineyards were planted in the 1970s, and was the site of experimental plantings, innovation, and a revolution in Southern Oregon wine. In 2003, founder Dick Troon sod the property to Larry Martin, who planted new vineyards, diversified the portfolio and created the wines that we know today. With Vermentino, Syrah, Tannat, and Malbec, as well as blends, Troon is blazing a new path in Southern Oregon. Southern Oregon is often known for Tempranillo, with it’s bright acid and earthy notes. But Troon goes a step farther and delves in to the big reds, traditionally known to both France and South America. First up: 2013 Troon Blue Label Malbec, Rogue Valley A renegade wine from Oregon’s Rouge Valley, the Troon Vineyard Malbec loves the rocky soils that are decaying from the mountaintops above the valley. This rich, bold Malbec is pleasing on a cold summer night, with ripe blackberry, a touch of smoke, and espresso notes dancing on plum pudding. Old saddle leather and cigar box aromas envelop the pop of acid at the finish, wrapping you in warmth and bold flavors without weighing your palate down, with silky smooth tannins. Thank you Craig and Troon for introducing me to these lovely wines! Next up, Troon Tannat
Driving up a dusty dirt road, at the edge of a vineyard in Lodi, you could see the history in the vines. These gnarled old beasts were baking in the late spring heat, and you could just feel the struggle as they worked to survive the turbulent weather. This was Rauser Vineyard, planted with old vine Carignane and Zinfandel. Our guide, Mike Mike McCay, was enthusiastically giving us an oral history of the last 20 years, while digging in the dry, crumbling dirt of the vineyard. Mike is an innovator, something that is more common in Lodi than you would expect. Not satisfied to go with the status quo, he is always looking for new ways to survive the ever persistent drought, and to produce some amazing wines. His winemaking style centers around the terroir of Lodi, and specifically this patch of land. Using Native yeasts while concentrating on Zinfandel and Rhône varietals, he has brought out the true expression of htis small AVA in the region. Tiptoeing through the high furrows of dusty red soil, Mike poured us his Clements Hills Viognier. This mineral driven white enjoyed a long, warm growing season, which resulting in ripe pears and stone fruit, followed by rich floral aromas. It was just the thing to whet our palates on the hot and dusty day. After learning a bit of history of this piece of land, we met up with Mike’s family at his house for a down home Lodi style BBQ. Quite the chef, Mike McCay fired up the vine driven barrel barbeque and quickly got to work making a feast – perfectly designed to showcase his wines. Mike pulled out all the stops, retrieving some beautiful examples of Lodi’s Rhône style wines from his cellar, plus, by special request Cabernet Franc. One might not expect either Cab Sav or Cab Franc to be successful in what amounts to a high desert climate, however, with the varied terrain and terroir of the larger Lodi growing region, it did beautifully. McCay Cellars specializes in Rhône varietals, and also has a beautiful Cabernet Franc and is working with old vine Zin. Growing slowly and steadily, Mike has witness major changes in Lodi over the last 20 years. Industrial grape production has made way for artisan, small lot producers, and the wine tourism business has seen growth in Lodi tourism and the affiliated business. The careful attention McCay pays to his vineyards and his winemaking are evident in the beautiful wines he produces. But don’t take my word for it! Stop by and visit when you’re in town. McCay Cellars has a tasting room in Lodi, open no weekends (Thursday-Sunday) from 11-5. The next time you’re in Lodi, be sure to experience the Rhône varetals from McCay Cellars! If Mike’s int he tasting room, you’re sure to get a history lesson along with your Grenache.