Will they ever be as sweet? The answer is, no! because rose has made a revolution, and there are new kids on the block. Gone are the days of bygone all there was to rosé was a sweet, cloying white zinfnadel. Today’s American pink wine is diverse, exciting, and runs from off dry to bone dry, from juicy strawberries to salted watermelon. To focus on these diverse styles of rosé, this month’s #winestudio is focusing on the various style of rosé from Sonoma County. The first up is Passaggio Wines, who’s winemaker Cindy Cosco loves to play with different fruit sources. I’ve known Cindy for a while now, from her humble beginnings at Crushpad in San Francisco after a career in law enforcement, to her thriving tasting room on the Sonoma Plaza. Starting with the Barbera, on through the Mourvedre, pushing through Rosé Colored Glasses (a Tempranillo) and on to her latest pink project from Merlot, there is always something new to taste form this eclectic winery. 2014 Mourvedré Rose (sold out) – quite possibly my favorite of the three, the Mourvedré Rose comes from Clarksburg, a warm climate in the Central Valley. With juicy red fruit, strawberries and raspberries as expected, but with an herbal and floral finish, this is a perfect rose with grilled wild salmon or grilled chicken. 2015 Rose Colored Glasses – Sourced from Sonoma County, this starts out similarly to the Mourvedré, with bright red berries, it quickly reveals itself to be a stronger rose with deeper red fruit, watermelon, and a hint of spice. A classic rosato style, it stands up well to burgers and other grilling meats. 2015 Merlot Rose – is the newest kid on the block, hailing from Carneros. Low in alcohol and deep in color, it has classic Merlot flavors of cherry, plum and blackberry, but finishes with a beautiful green herbal note and savory dried herbs. This is a fun addition to the club, and I can taste the salted watermelon salad, pork chops or turkey burgers. Three cheers to Cindy and her rose project, and I can’t wait to see what she comes up with next! While the Merlot rosé was a sample sent to me for the purposes of particiapting in #winestudio, all other Passaggio wines were purchased by…me! Next up in #winestudio, Ellipses Wine Compnay Rose of Pinot Meunier!
Markus Bokisch was raised in California, but has a long history of ties to Spain. As a child, Markus spent his summers there, and as is the norm in European tradition, water & wine were served at meals. With this pre-disposition to love the rich wines of Spain, Markus moved to Spain with his wife Lisa and worked his way up in the Spanish wine industry. With endeavors in Raimat and Penedes, he became and expert at the cultivation of these special varietals. When he moved back to California, he knew that Lodi had something special – hidden behind 100 years of old Italian field blends and Zinfandel, and that it was the perfect location to begin his endeavor with Iberian varietals. The Terra Alta Vineyard in Clements Hills was the first property they purchased, wherethey imported Spanish budwood to firmly root Bokisch as the go to resource for these plantings. In 1999, they planted Las Cerezas Vineyard, which is the motherblock, planted to Tempranillo, Albarino, and Graciano – classic Spanish grapes. Two years later, the first vintage of Bokisch Vineyards wine was released. Today, Bokisch grows over 2500 acres under vine, and works with wineries all over California in addition to producing their own wine. With a careful consideration for the environment and sustainability, they are making a mark on how viticulture can be beneficial for the land as well as the economy. I first tasted Bokisch wine shortly after that initial release, when I was part of the now (sadly) defunct Wine Q wine service. I knew immediately, even though my palate was still developing in those early years of my wine career, that I would love what was to come. Here we are, 8 years later, and I am lucky enough to taste the current releases of Bokisch frequently through a variety of tastings. On this day, we enjoyed two different Albarinios – the first being from the Terra Alta Vineyard, where the tasting room is located, and the second from Las Cerezas, that motherblock planted in 1999. While they were both welcome refreshers on this warm day, the Las Cerezas edged out the Terra Alta, with intensely tropical notes, and juicy fruit with lime zest and firm minerality on the finish. Next, the Garnacha Blanca – a personal passion of mine – was a clear expression of how terroir impacts the finished product. The medium body was full of fresh stone fruit, oranges, and pungent green herbs. The creamy finish is perfect for cheese, hearty fish dishes, and just plain summer sipping. Stylistically, Garnacha Blanca tends to be bolder than it’s cousin Grenache Blanc, and I appreciate the weight and texture. The last of the whites, the age old question of Verdelho vs. Verdejo. Often confused as the same grape, Verdelho has roots in Portugal and is used widely in Madeira. In contrast, Verdejo is a Spanish white grape, which has been traced back to North Africa, and is now widely […]
One of my favorite stops on my tour of Rioja was Bodegas Izadi, a small group of producers established 25 years ago. A striking 5 story winery is tucked behind the small house that holds the tasting facilities, and is the centerpoint of the gravity feed operation. Bodegas Izadi, located a stone’s throw from the Basque country is Basque for nature, and the wines reflect that in the wines and properties. While most of Rioja is widely known for the red wine made from Tempranillo, Bodegas Izadi is more famous for thier whites, which are refreshing and beautiful on a hot Rioja day. The calcareous soils of Rioja Alavesa look like a moonscape, with dried, cracked calcium rich soils holding strong to the bold Tempranillo vines. Known for wines with a fuller body and higher acidly, the hard scrub soils produce vigorous vines that fight for nutrients creating some amazing wines of bold character. First up, the 2012 Blanco F.B. is a blend of Viura and Malvasia. This bright and clean wine has notes of flowers, specifically daisies, and a aromatic vanilla finish. Full of peaces and musk melon, this fresh and fruity white is barrel aged for 3 months, and a steal at $20. The 2009 Crianza is made with fruit from 40 year old vineyards and is the flagship wine of Bodegas Izadi. This fresh, fruity, friendly wine has dried figs, fruit compote, violets and molasses. Yum! A pinch of Graciano is included from the field blend, although they are unsure how much is actually planted in there as it has intermingled with the Tempranillo for so long. The firm tnanins in this wine are great with food and will maintain it’s structure for years to come. Regalo, or “The Gift”, Reserva is made from a small selection of low yield vineyards that are averaging 50 years old. Primarily Tempranillo, there is also 1% blended in with Garnacha, Graciano, and Mazuelo (Carignane). The rich smokey blackberry fruit, blue fruit and chewy dense red fruit really shine through in this special wine. The finish oges on for days, and is perfect for a classic Rioja steak en plancha (meat on a stick, grilled)! The Orben brand was started with the intention of introducing new ways of winemaking in the old world regime of Rioja. With careful sellection of fruit and modern winemaking techniques, the Orben wines are appealing to the New World palates. The 2008 Orben Tempranillo is made the modern style, with a selection from 72 plots around Rioja Alvesa. These very old vines produce a single bunch of grapes each, full of bigger, bold fruit expression and personality. This chewy and dense wine still holds a beautiful bright acidity on top of the brooding bramble berry fruit. A declassified Rioja (green label), this gives the winemaker freedom in style and expression and this shows in the Orben. The name Orben stems from orb, or circle, but an imperfect circle; always striving to be better, the Orben is […]
Meandering through the country side of Rioja, Bodegas (wine cellars) are dotted along the back roads like farmhouses in Iowa. Bodegas Bilbaninas is in the heart of Rioja, in the Haro district of Rioja Alta. With 250 hectares (615 acres more or less ) of vineyards, they have been known for excellent wines since 1859. Never content to sit back and let change pass them by, Bilbanianas recently added the modern and upstart Vina Zaco to it’s line up. Currently owned by a French company, the family of brands also produces cognac and champagne.Bodegas Bilbainas has the oldest bottling registration in Rioja, which is unique among such an old wine tradition. As we toured the winery, we were greeted by a visual history of the bodega, which is a living piece of history. When wine first became the economic center of the region, as today, there were many attempts to counterfeit true Rioja. To combat this, Bodegas Bilbaninas and others, began the process of adding the net over the bottle that we can still see today (though now it’s decorative in nature). Why you might ask? As our host explained to us, if you put a net over the bottle after the label is affixed, you can’t slap another label on top. Genius I say! As the largest vineyard owner in the Haro area, Bodegas Bilbaninas believes in the importance of the estate vineyard. With 250 hectares of contiguous land, this is unusual and unique in Rioja and sets them apart from the competition. Having experienced the smaller bodegas and the larger bodegas, Bodegas Bilbaninas runs regular tours and tastings to educate the enotourist on the special aspects of Rioja Alta. Make sure you taste the young, fresh and fun Vina Zaco. Make of 100% Tempranillo, the Vina Zaco is a fruitier expression of Rioja that is indicative of the newer wine movement in the region. For a more traditional approach to winemaking, Bodegas Bilbaninas also produces Vina Pomal, and La Vicalanda wines. Be sure to include Bodegas Bilbaninas on your trip through the region! You won’t be sorry. Google