wine

Getting Vertical

Vertical: To be upright.

Wine does a lot of things to people. It evokes joy, it livens your tastebuds, it might even make you melancholy. It can also make you a little Sideways. When last we saw erstwhile Miles and sidekick Jack in the novel Sideways (and the subsequent movie which while it’s one of my favorite wine movies ever, is not exactly true to the book…ok most movies aren’t but still. If you haven’t read the book READ THE BOOK!) Jack was married (perhaps ill advisedly) and Miles was reconnecting with The One – Maya.

Now, several years have passed, and Vertical explores Miles’ life after Santa Barbara. If you remember Sideways, you know that Miles has a troubled relationship with his mother. Now aging and unwell, Miles has the unwelcome task of caring for her, and helping her move to another state so she can spend her final days with her estranged sister.

Miles has tried and failed, and tried again, quit drinking, and is attempting to ride out the success of his now published novel, without much luck. The demands of his publishes and commitments for press engagements are pushing him in to a hole as deep as the one he was in when the book wasn’t publishable at all.

Bring in Jack, who’s philandering ways and hard drinking habits have now landed him in hot water woith his now ex-wife.

Both a buddy road trip story and a bittersweet look at the life of two middle aged best friends, Vertical explores the relationships of two friends, for good or bad, as they muddle through the difficulties of every day life, love, alcohol abuse and aging parents.

Vertical is tragically sad in places, and hilariously funny in others, in a way sideways was not. I find it much more real, honest, and open in looking at the realities of life.

I can’t recommend this follow up enough, particularly if you read the book Sideways, and didn’t just watch the movie. Vertical follow it up with the realities of fame, the perils of life, and how you balance the two.

I’m thrilled to announce that Rex will be speaking in person at the 10th Annual Pinot Summit on February 25th in San Francisco. After hosting a #winechat twitter session a few weeks ago, I find him engaging, self deprecating, humorous and absolutely delightful. You can follow him on Twitter as well.

I hope you can join us for this one of a kind event! Tickets are $130 for a full day of Pinot tasting, educational seminars, and the Grand Awards. Alternatively, you can opt for the Grand Awards tasting only.

I am trying to do more book reviews now. I read like someone from Freaks & Geeks, and occasionally I get press copies for review. This one however, I bought for myself.

Happy reading!

A long winter’s night…ZAP WINNERS ANNONCED

Jan 10th, 2012

by winebratsf.

8 comments

It’s that time of year again, where you curl up in front of your fake Amish fire (no wood burning here please, it’s Spare the Air!), open a big juicy zin, a good book, and your new furry slippers. It’s cold here these days, and the damp chill of the morning fog makes it feel more like London than San Francisco. That’s not all bad however, as it’s days like this that make me cook up a big pot of bean soup and open some of my deliciously California Zinfandel.

One of the most unique American wines, Zinfandel has a long history in California. From Italian field blends during the gold rush to the new gold rush of wine, zinfandel has a solid palace in history. There are so many different flavor profiles you can find, from raisiny ripe Paso Robles to spicy & racy Sierra Foothills, to brambly blackberry punch of Dry Creek. What better way to taste them than at the 2012 Zinfandel Festival!

January 26-28, 2012 join thousands of Zinfandel aficionados in San Francisco for the 21st Annual Zinfandel Festival. This year marks a departure from the past festivals, with both a venue change and event revamping. I am excited to see how these changes impact the festival. In 2012, the festival will be help for the first time in the Concourse Exhibition Center, an urban venue south of Market Street in San Francisco. While this can present a logistical nightmare, my hope is that it will encourage more taxis and bus travel than auto travel – which has resulted in some less than stellar behavior in years past.

But back tot he event! Thursday ZAP kicks off with Epicuria, formerly known as Good Eats & Zin. This has long been my favorite event, with it’s smaller crowd and delicious food pairings. At this gourmet extravaganza, you can discover the diversity of zinfandel, as it is paried with a huge variety of sweet & savory food sfrom some of the best restaurants in California.

Friday afternoon, Flights continues it’s journey with Forums of Flavor. At this exclusive seminar-style tasting you will discover themed flights of Zinfandels and interact with Zinfandel experts. Aimed at the true wine aficionado with an aptitude toward learning more, Flights offers in-depth insight into the Zinfandel varietal and provides the opportunity to experience the true character of the legend.

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Mumm’s the word!

Jan 4th, 2012

by winebratsf.

3 comments

It was a cool crisp morning here in Northern California, when I got up entirely too early for a Saturday. After my first 10 cups of coffee, I was somewhat alive, so I packed myself up in to my trusty German wine mobile, and headed up to the Silverado Trail for a 10am breakfast tour of Mumm Napa Valley.

As fate would have it, the roads were clear (mostly) of traffic, save a few particularly slow tourists, and I got to Napa in record time. As we gathered at the gates of Mumm, eagerly hoping they would open the door, the fog just started to back off the valley and we could see the winter vineyards layed out before us.

Finally, at last! The doors openeed and our assorted posse of bloggers was greeted by the Mumm assistant Winemaker Tammy Lotz and self appointed cruise directory Mitch Davis with a morning glass of Deveaux Ranch.

But first, who was Monsieur Deveaux? Mumm Napa was started as a joint venture between G.H. Mumm, the French Champagne House, and Seagram & Sons. As luck would have it, it has changed hands, and now is owned by the same parent company (Pernod Ricard) as G.H. Mumm, so there is a sense of continuity and quality that carries through.

Guy (that’s Gee by the way, not Guy as in Guy Smiley) founded the Napa operation, and he was convinced that the Silverado Trail location would be a perfect balance of foggy, cool nights and hot long days; these conditions are idea for sparkling wine’s dance of acid and ripe fruit. Having a location in the New World also allows Mumm Napa to play beyond the constraints of the rather strict Champagne region bylaws – adding Pinot Gris to the blend for example, and to play with the best wines from the best regions.

So, here we are, on a chilly Saturday morning, glass of rather delectable 2006 Deveaux Ranch in our hands. This sparkler is a perfect representation of Mumm Napa, since it blends 58% Pinot Noir, 28% Chardonnay, 9% Pinot Meunier and 5% Pinot Gris, something that you might see in a Cremant, but never in a Champagne. This is a perfect start to the day with green apple, pear, and tropical flavors with a crisp acidity. For something different, you should RUN out and grab this wine. Yes, you’ll need to go to the winery, but who doesn’t want to sit on the terrace and sip bubbles? ‘Nuff said. This is a winery exclusive wine, but it’s worth a trip. It’s what I opened on New Year’s Day and it was simply stunning – well worth the $36.

As we meandered through the production facility, we stopped to try our hands at blending the 2011 Chard & Pinot, to create the different blends that Mumm creates. While they were still base wines, you can easily see how the high acid and low sugar content in the base wine creates a beautiful acid in the finished sparkler. I wouldn’t recommend drinking them however, as still wines, if you value the enamel on your teeth. I liken this exercise to tasting 70 New Zealand sav blancs in an afternoon; after a while your tongue is furry!

Winding our way through a rotating art gallery, next we were served the 2008 Pinot Meunier. While this is a common varietal in Champagne, it is often difficult to find in a domestic sparkler. This delightful wine is only crafted in exceptional vintages and evokes classic Champagne to me, with yeasty toast, and warm bread. This wine is aged 29 months sur lie, which really develop the flavor. If you are looking for something different, check it out! I love a 100% Petite Meunier, and this is a classic offering. Go for it! $36

As we gazed at Ansel Adams as well as rotating local artists, we worked our way back to the tasting salon, we were greeted by no less than 8 samples of sparkling wine. Whoo! Now this is what I call a Saturday! Winemaker Ludo Dervin, himself from Champagne entertained us with a pyramid of bubbles. Starting with the least expensive, but in no way inferior, wines of Brut Prestige, Brut Rose, and Cuvee M, we worked up to the Blanc de Blanc and Brut Reserve before the top of the line DVX. But, we were also surprised with a special bottling of the Santana Brut, a special join effort with the musician and, another treat, the Brut Reserve Rose.

While I enjoy the more commonplace offerings (aka found everywhere) of the Brut Prestige, Brut Rose, and Cuvee M, I have to admit they are somewhat boring to my spoiled taste buds. That said, at approximately $15 a bottle here in CA you really can’t beat that price.

More interesting to me were the Blanc de Blanc (made entirely of Chardonnay grapes) and the Brut Reserve for their clean, crisp flavor profile and toasty back notes.

Finally, at the top of the food chain, we tasted the DVX. The DVX isn’t made every year, and the first vintage was 1990. I used to love this wine, but it wasn’t really hitting the spot for me on this particular day. I remember when I was a young wineaux and a member of the club here at Mumm that this was my favorite, but it was either the weather or the flavor profile that just wans’t working for me today.

Finally, back to taste the Santana. This one of a kind wine was first created in 1999 as a partnership with the musician and Mumm Napa, with the proceeds going to the Milagro Foundation. Right! Drinking for charity is always something on my agenda! Made with with a pinch more dosage than the Brut Reserve, this wine had wonderful stone fruit, brioche and green apple flavors that I just adored. It’s a splurge, but well worth it in my opinion at $45.

The Brut Reserve Rosé, which is 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, is also a special wine made with 5% of the Pinot Noir being a super ripe Carneros component that is blended back in to the base wine. The result is that you get crisp bright red fruit, but ti’s much drier than the Brut Rosé. This is a wallet friendly $22 and should absolutely be examined, for…research purposes.

And remember, you can add fizz to a oaky buttery chard, but you’ld have a disgusting fruit punch! (Thanks to Ludo for this slightly parapharased quote to protect the innocent). Making sparkling wine is an art form. You can truly screw it up or you can make magic.

I’ve come to find that I really enjoy a drier style of sparlking these days. Over the years, as my knowledge has increased, my taste has changed. A fairly natural progression, I moved from sweet whites and roses to much drier and, I suppose, Austere sytle. That said, all of these wines are delicious, and you really should teaste them for yourslef. If you appreciate a slightly sweeter or fruity edge, try the Brut Prestige, Rose, and Cuvee M. These are alle excellent values and should be tasted at your own pace.

Thanks to the team at Mumm for entertaining us! You can discover Mumm Napa for yourselves on the Silverado Trail. They are open from 10am every day of the week, with the first tour (no tasting), or the Tour & Tastings starting at 11. If you prefer, you can relax in one of two tasting areas as well, overlooking the valley just below.

Lessons on being a better blogger…writer…or whatever

Aug 1st, 2011

by winebratsf.

3 comments

Wine: The final frontier

These are the voyages of the Wine Brat, Thea.
Its 5 year mission (yep, it’s true. I’ve been blogging for five years!)
To explore strange new wines
To seek out new bottles and new producers
To boldly go where no wine blogger has gone before.

These are the voyages of a wine bloggers writer and lover, trying to discover more about herself and her passion for the grape.

Recently back from a weekend in Virginia at the Wine Bloggers Conference, where both New York Times wine critfc Eric Asimov and London Financial Times wine writer Jancis Robinson gave a key note speeches, my thoughts are jumbled and varied as I think about how to be a better blogger.

Both Jancis Robinson and Eric Asimov challenge the word, and somewhat the concept – of blogger. Is "blogger" still really a valid term? Bloggers are wine writers who chose to publish on line. Traditional print media authors choose to publish on paper. Writing is what brings us all together, today. Love, true love (of the vine). I am still getting used to this idea. I am a proud blogger and I like to refer to myself that way, because if I call myself a wine writer, the mass public naturally assumes that I write for a publication. Perhaps we should be called "online wine writers".

As wine writers, Jancis challenged us to do more investigative research before we blog. Er write. While the core value of this makes sense, I question the validity of her challenge; I am not a journalist, nor do i wish to be one. While the most successful wine bloggers (not in terms of making money but in readership) have similar core writing styles, none of them assume or claim to be journalists. Nor do I. I try to be accurate and truthful in my writing, but in the end – my blog is just my blog, and musings of what I feel like talking about. one of the major reasons that I decided not to pursue writing with an online wine magazine was because I didn’t want to be subject to the editorial rules that come with being a professional writer. I write this blog so I can express my thoughts in a meaningful way, and I hope that you enjoy reading it, and share with others.

One vital point that Jancis made during her speech was that writers, print or otherwise, need to sit up and take notice that while the book is not dead, the delivery method of the written word is changing. Online, kindle, ebook readers, print, newspapers, magazine. Essentially, they are all the same thing – but the delivery method is different. I have an ipad, but most of my books are just that – books. That said, the Kindle / iPad / Nook market allows you to give readers the option of how they will choose to accept delivery of your material. I read blogs primary via an RSS reader. Some people read blogs via the web or on their phone. The point here, is that you must make your material available and readable for all sorts of platforms, as well as an international audience. Don’t localize too much or you are putting yourself in a box; I write primarily about American wines, but just one click on Google Analytics, and I know that I have international readers. The balance is maintaining my wit and style, while limiting colloquialism that would be lost on an international readership.

A key point that both Robinson and Asimov were keen to make is that if you are an online writer, you are also your own editor and publisher, and you need to understand what this means. My task is to digest these nuggets with a blogger’s mindset, and interpreted to suit your needs. Jancis further implored us, as wine writers in an online world, to hone our writing skills. I work at this every day and in every post; but there are, sadly, too many blogs that use poor grammar or just don’t make sense. If you are a ~~blogger~~ online wine writer, you should ensure that you are taking the time to digest your thoughts, and work & rework your written words. Writers of all sorts go through multiple iterations before their words are put to print. I think we should do the same. Posting things that are not well thought out just add ot the misconception that ~~bloggers~~ online wine writers are hacks that don’t know what they are talking about. While I don’t think I need an editor to write a blog, I DO think I need to self edit – even if it’s at the most basic level of spelling. I believe I need to understand how to structure a sentence so that it makes sense and expresses my thought coherently; I also believe that to write a piece for a n audience that won’t hear my inflection and comedic wit, that i need to think about how it looks on the page, and not how I sound when I say it out loud.

Occasionally, writers suffer from a thought block or an uninspired lull. I am not immune to this but I have found that reading other blogs and using tools like Creative Whack Packs can help blast me out of lull. Another key trait of a good writer is admitting that you don’t know something. I hope that you see that in my writing; I don’t know a lot of things, and I’d rather admit that, than make something up. There shouldn’t be any fear in admitting the unknown. One of the keys in being to be open an honest in this is fostering a community, both of readers, and other writers, who you can uses as a resource. Encourage new readers to be engaged. Wine can be a scary subject for someone just starting to enjoy it, and when you get too esoterica and off on tangents, you will alienate some readers.

The following day, Eric Asimov, author of the New York Times column formerly known as The Pour (now incorporated in the Diner’s Journal), shook up the room my telling us that we shouldn’t write tasting notes. I emphatically disagree with this statement -0 and even though I think it was really meant rather flippantly, I think many in attendance are taking it too literally. I am spinning this with my bloggers mindset, and ensuring that my tasting notes have a place within the story of the wine at the focus of the post. We are, after all, wine bloggers (wine writers wine writers wine writers. I will get this down eventually!). To not write a wine review or tasting note for a year, if I take Asimov at his word, would cut out a large amount of wine blogs who are talking about the wine.

In fact, in a simple poll that I did on Facebook, I asked my blog readers if I should write more reviews, less reviews, or something entirely different. While the majority of respondents said they wanted me to write more about the winery, location, or the STORY, they also indicated that they wanted the tasting notes in context. So, for my part, I will try to make sure I write about why I like or dislike a wine, what emotions it evokes in me, and why I think you should try it, and try to stay away from triple berry crunch descriptors. After all, my schnozzberry might be your razzleberry.

The key takeaway I have from Eric’s speech (which I might add, I read on twitter, and watched online after the event – since I was suffering the creeping crud at the time) is that in order to write about wine, you need to learn about wine. Tasting wine is not enough. You need to experience wine. How do you do that? You drink a lot of wine, you explore wine, you read about wine, you learn about wine, you experiment with pairing wine with food. Why this is important is that it can give you the perspective to be able to think about situations in a new light. I knew, before going to Virginia, that the VA wines that I had tasted were probably not the best examples of what the state has to offer. I didn’t like VA wine. But, I went to VA with an open mind. I decided, before I went, that I was going to taste VA wines and yes, they might suck, but, then again – they might not. And, I’m happy to report, I was pleasantly surprised by some of the wines I tried. This changed my pre-concived notion about wines from the area, and I’m more apt to try a wine from someone off beat as a result.

So go forth, and learn. I am my own worst critic and I often question if I write well, or if I know anything about wine, so I am ever striving to learn more and do better. The secret to success in most things is to be on a continuous journey of education. I know what I like, and I chose to write about that because that’s what I know. The unconformable challenge, is to learn about what I don’t know, and to share that journey with you.

Wine blogging has evolved. Even if you write your blog out of passion, as I do, writing with professionalism and knowledge is key to being heard. That doesn’t mean your blog shouldn’t express your voice, but it does mean:

Learn your subject matter
Dive in to your material, and don’t be afraid to dig deeper
Be honest
Ask questions
Be inquisitive
Be welcoming and gracious

Happy reading!

Happy 4th of July!

Jul 4th, 2011

by winebratsf.

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Normally, I refrain from posting anything that is particular patriotic, political, or US centric because hey – you never know who is reading my blog these days. Today however, I feel like I have a lot to celebrate:

It’s over 60 degrees in San Francisco and there is no fog on the 4th, which has happened maybe 3 times in the 36 years that I have lived here
I don’t have to work today horray! Any time I get an extra day off to drink, eat, and play is fine by me!
There are great tunes playing on KFOG, my local passion radio station. You can listen online too – and I highly recommend it!

So, here I am, making cookies for home made Its Its (if you don’t know what an Its It is, I feel sorry for you! A Bay Area institution, this ice cream sandwich concoction is heaven in a freezer) and I popped open the Domaine Carnero s Brut Rose. Domaine Carneros makes some of my favorite domestic bubbly, and I never say no when there is some in the fridge

chilling.

A pale salmon copper color, this bubbly is 58% pinot noir and 42% chardonnay, where traditionally blanc de noir is all pinot. Crisp and refreshing, there are dry wild strawberries and white peaches. A touch of shale and mineral gives this a nice refreshing body with hints of orange juice (no i did NOT make a mimosa first!) and spicy back notes on the finish. It really is the perfect brunch beverage and I am enjoying it on my lazy summer day.

For $35, this is a MUST BUY if you love bubbly!

Happy drinking!

Thank you Tattinger (parent of Domaine Carneros) for providing me this yummy treat for today!

Gris, Grigio, Good Grief!

Jun 3rd, 2011

by winebratsf.

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So Summer hasn’t quite arrived here in San Francisco, but I decided that I needed a little white wine. I know I know, you’re thinking “Bratty! What have you done!” Those of you who have followed my antics over the years probably realize that I have an abnormal appreciation (er obsession with all things pinot (noir), so today I decided to stick with the pinot theme and taste some Pinot Grigio. I mean Gris.

Normally, I run away and scream in horror when I see the words pinot and grigio together as they evoke a certain…Real Housewives of Nowhere bad $5 wine swilling horror. But, I’m happy to say that two wines from the Robert Oatley family are actually a lovely departure from the cheap Italian varietal. Yes, I know there is good Pinot Grigio, but it’s just attacked and tortured by the bad.

So, starting with the 2009 Tic Tok Pinot Grigio, which retails for anywhere from $10-13, I found a light tropical touch on the nose, lemon and mango in the body, and a light refreshing texture. The edge of baking spice rounds it out nicely. There was a lot of grapefruit, lychee and nectarine fruit flavors and it had a nice weight without being heavy. It’s a lovely summer white, though not a terribly complex wine, but at $10 average, it’s a great summer sipper for patio parties and BBQs.

After the Tik Tock, the 2009 Robert Oatley Pinot Gris, Adelaide Hills is a deeper golden hue, as it sits on the skins for longer to give depth of flavor and color. This wine is richer than the Tic Tok and has pear and spice notes. It’s a great sipper to replace your chardonnay!

Robert Oatley has been making wine in Australia for over 40 years, and the family has been around since convict days. Pretty good for a prisoner, no?

I love a good pinot gris, especially as the weather heats up. I challenge you to go out and find a great pinot gris to bring to you next party!

Thanks to Robert Oatley for providing me with this slurpalicious whites!

Are you single?

May 23rd, 2011

by winebratsf.

10 comments

Are you looking for adventure? Want some one on one time with some really great wine?

Then look no further! SingleVineyard.com is a new dating site.

ok well not really. BUT – it IS almost time for the 2nd Annual Russian River Single Vineyard night! (And no, it’s NOT just for singles!) What is this wild adventure you ask? Single Vineyard Night is a celebration of single vineyard wines in the caves, where you can sip, eat and tweet some of the best that the area has to offer.

On June 4th, from 6:30-10, join single minded wineaux at Thomas George Estates in Russian River where you can wander the caves and meet more than 30 winemakers woh specialize in single vineyard wines. Roving “Cellar Teams” will be promoting auction lots, and in a new twist, group bidding is encouraged to raise funds for Russian River Valley Winegrowers to continue their work to preserve the region’s agriculture legacy through marketing and education. Targeted at millennials, the 20-30 somethings who are the biggest new group of wine drinkers since GenX grew up and became post boomer yuppies (oh hell, that’s ME!) young vintners and growers will be pouring their wares.

After the tasting, move on over to the Thomas George Estates’ picnic grounds for the auction! A no-host bar featuring wines that normally retail for under $25 (offered by the taste and glass) and “sliders” fresh off the grill for a small price will be available as well as other food items. This year, one lot – hosted by Thomas George, will benefit a project sponsored by Coddingtown Mall, who donates gift cards to children from homeless shelters, Boys & Girls Clubs and other children’s groups to shop for school clothes.

Here are some of the kids pouring Single Vineyard wines:

Ancient Oaks, Siebert Ranch
Arrowood-Saralee’s Vineyard
Balletto Vineyards , selection of single vineyards
Benovia, Bella Una Vineyard
Desmond Wines, Estate
Dutton Estate Winery, Dutton Palms Vineyard
Dutton Goldfield, Freestone Hill Vineyard
Ferrari-Carano, Fiorella
Gary Farrell, Westside Farms
George Wine Company, Leras Family Vineyard
Graton Ridge Cellars, Bacigalupi Vineyard
Hop Kiln Winery, HKG Bridge Selection
Inman Family, Olivet Grange Vineyard
Iron Horse Vineyards, Rued Clone
John Tyler Wines, Bacigalupi Vineyard
Joseph Swan, Trenton View Vineyard
Korbel
LaFollette, DuNah Vineyard
Lauterbach Cellars, Estate
Longboard, Dakine Vineyard
Martinelli Winery, Lolita Ranch
Matrix Winery, Nunes Vineyard
Merriam, Willowside Vineyard
Merry Edwards, Klopp Ranch
Moshin Vineyards, Bacigalupi Vineyard
Mueller Winery, Vino Farms
Nalle Winery, Hopkins Ranch
Old World Winery, Estate
Papapietro Perry, Leras Family Vineyard
Russian River Vineyards, Estate Vineyards
Sandole Wines, Oehlman Ranch
Siduri Wines, Ewald Vineyards
Sonoma Cutrer, Owsley
Thumbprint Cellars, Saralee’s Vineyard
William Selyem, Flax Vineyard

Since I am unable to attend this year, both because I’m not longer single (don’t tell me you didn’t read my Facebook today!) and because I am booked, I am giving away two tickets to this event. Yes! TWO TICKETS! Tickets are $45 each so that’s some moola right there. Please leave a comment here on this post telling me what you like most about Single Vineyard Wines to be eligible to wine! Er win. Winners will be announced on Wednesday, May 25th Thursday May 26th FRIDAY MAY 27TH (yeah you have to be 21 to attend youngsters).

Tickets to this event are $45 (presale, $55 at the door), or $80 for a VIP session that starts at 5:30. I think it will be a blast! Go forth and buy tickets. It’s only $45! And you do not need a date, and you do not need to be single, you just need to love wine!

High on a Ridge (again)

May 9th, 2011

by winebratsf.

2 comments

It’s another day on top of the mountain here, and the sun is shining at last. It’s clear, and we can see San Jose and even a bit of San Francisco in the distance. It’s time for a visit to Ridge Vineyards in Cupertino!

We start our tasting with the 2009 Estate Chardonnay, which is aged in a mish mash of barrels from new to 4 year old American and French oak. I found creamy vanilla custard, spicy oak, and lemon flavors with a healthy dose of tropical fruit. This blend is harvested and vinified separately, and then finalized after a blind tasting of each component is done to determine the possible blends that could be made. Most of the contents of this blend come from the Jimson Ranch vineyard which is at about 1500 feet elevation, giving the wine a lot of minerality and acidity.

Next up, the 2008 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, which is a blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 3% Petite Verdot, and 2% Cabernet Franc. I loved this cab because it was racy and had some nice acidity. The wild yeast fermentation shows a ton of mineral flavors with dusty sandlewood finish. There were big black and blue fruit flavors, with plum and rich figs with juicy cherries on the palate. It was rich without being overblown, a total winner in my book.

The 2009 Geyserville Zinfandel is the 44th vintage of this wine, which makes it the longest continuously produced Zinfandel in the state, which, quite frankly with the ever changing wine industry – is quite a feat. Given that our state is known for it’s Italian immigrants and the traditions of Italian field belnds (mostly zin) that they brought over, the Ridge style of zin is a dying art. The grapes come from properties that are interplanted and dry farmed with wild yeast fermentation and I tasted tradiitonally big blackberry jam, with some black pepper and cherries on top. I also found some hibiscus zing which gives this 74% Zinfandel, 17% Carignane, 6% Petite Sirah, 2% Alicante Bouchet, 1% Mataro (Mouvedre, or if you prefer Monastrell) mutt some life and body.

Compared to the 1999 Geyserville, the 09 was tapdancing on American Idol. The 99 was chewy, dark and earthy witha healthy dose of cigar box to round out the rusticity (this is my new favorite word, and since Christopher loves $20 words….) The 99 is 68% zin, 16% Carignane, 16% Petite Sirah and was chewy and dense. The fruit is still there after 12 years, but it’s brooding and not bright and zingy – which, is amazing and delicious in an entirely differently way.

The 1985 Monte Belle Cab was a rare treat. The color is an astounding browning bronze and the nose is rich and caramelized touch of white pepper. It had quite meaty characteristics, with some floral notes on the palate and a bit of wood on the back end. THe companion 1995 Monte Bello, a blend of 69% Cab, 18% Merlot, 10% Petite Verdot and 3% Cab Franc was a darkly chewy and big wine with black fruit, murky ink, notes of slightly rotten fruit and blueberries. Lots of twigs and sticks in this one! The 2005 Monte Bello was big rich fruit on the nose, with chewy leather and tobacco, dusty plum, and cherries jubilee. It had a nice subtle acidity and I really enjoyed this blend of 70% Cab Sav, 22% Merlot, 6% Petite Verdot and 2% Cab Franc. It was very restrained and well balanced and worked quite well with the cheese we were nibbling on.

And now, for something completely different! Ridges Rhones require a resounding sense of preposterousicity, or so said our host with the most (wine that is) Christopher Watkins.

The 2004 Lytton Estate Syrah is totally sold out, and totally delicious. It’s 82% Syrah and is a very small batch wine that is cofermented with 10% Viognier and 8% Grenache blended in for good measure. It has a flavor or a rich baked fruit pie, and is teeth coatingly purple. Lots of acid on this one. The 2006 Lytton Estate was funky cigar box with its 92% syrah and 8% Viognier. The viognier balanced out the syrah nicely and lit up the dark and brooding beast. The additional aromatics of the viognier gave some juicy white floral notes to the syrah as well.

As you can see, it was another marathon Ridge tasting, which we all enjoyed very much.

Thanks Chris for the great table settings and words of ponderment!

I look forward to our next quarterly tasting soon.

On the table top…

May 5th, 2011

by winebratsf.

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It’s Thursday, and I”m back in Paso Robles for Hospice du Rhone, the annual extravaganza showcasing the 22 Rhone Varietals from around the world. Since the first event didn’t kick off until that evening, we had some free time to visit a few favorite wineries – starting with Tablas Creek.

Tablas Creek Vineyard was founded in 1989, as a partnership between the Perrin family of Chatau de Beaucastel and Rover Hass, who founded Vineyard Brands. Having a shared vision of creating Rhone wines in California,they set about creating a New World Rhone house.

Today, Robert’s son Jason showed us around he property which boasts a spanking new tasting room, complete with cork floors (can I have some in MY house? Seriously noise cancelling comfort at its best) and several tasting areas that are easiy divdied up for differnet groups, or opened up for a community feeling.

The first wines of Tablas Creek were created in 1997 when the Estate Winery was completed. On this day, we toured the property, examined the new tasting room, and…well, drank some wine. With a wet wet wet 2010-11 growing season under way, Tablas – and most of Paso Robles- has seen a lot of rain. In a place where a typical year sees 28 inches of rain, so far (and this was in April) they have seen 36 inches. Tablas Creek is dry farmed, and with this kind of rain and whacky snow, sleet and frost, there has been some damage to the vines recently. Fortunately, most of the crop was saved, and there will be wine to show for it. What will this year’s weather do? Who knows. Stay tuned, I’ll take up the cause and go taste the wines every season. I’m a giver that way.

Each parcel on the property is hand picked to ripeness, meanng that there might be several passes on a row before all the bunches are harvested. Another highlight of Tablas is that they use 100% Native Yeast, and do not innocolate with commerical yeastes. It’s my personal belief that this gives much more character to a wine, and lets the fruit develop the beauty of the juice without overmanipulating it and turning it in to a Frankenwine.

Our first taste on the warm spring day was the 2010 Verminto. It was bright and crisp, with lot fo honey and stone fruit. The minerals clung to the glass with a burst of tangerine that I just love.

A new line for Tablas Creek is the Patelin de Tables. Launcehd in 2010, the white is based on Grenache Blanc, (see my passion ofr this wine HERE), and the red is based on Syrah. This is a ncie counterpart to the Esprit de Beaucastel line, which are based on Roussanne and Mouvedre. The Patelin de Tables Blanc had crisp pears, and green apple and was fresh and bright. I loved this wine, and could easily sip this on the patio for days.

Next up the 2010 Côtes de Tablas Blanc, which is viognier based. It was smooth and rich, with low acid and tons of floral notes. There is a touch of rousanne and marsanne blended in as well, I have to say, it was a nice white, but my money is on the Patelin de Tables.

The 2007 Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc had a lot of nutty notes, as well as baked fruti. This is a roussane blend, and is showing a touch of oxidation in it’s 5 year old life, but in an enjoyable way.

A favorite of mine, and one I enjoyed at the Pink Out as well, is the 2010 Rose. With 48 hours of skin contact, it has a rosy glow, and is a blend of 50% saignée (juice bled off from red wine production) and 50% purpose made rose. The majority of this wine is mourvedre, which gives it a backbone and some structure, even for a light rose. Great choice!

Ahh now on to the reds! Starting with the 2009 Côtes de Tablas, a grenache based big boy with huge spicy blackberry notes, cinnamon spice and plum. I absolutely adored this wine. The additions of syrah, counoise and mourvedre to the blend liven up the wine and give it a dark and brooding character with a kick of pepper at the end.

A treat from Jason was the 2009 100% Grenache, with its delicious spicy plum notes. I am a grenache FREAK and the high acid balances out the big fruit.

At this point, I have no idea what we were tasting, just that I had a great afternoon tasting some fantastic Rhone wines from Paso. There was not a bad wine in the bunch, and I could easily have taken a seat on the new terrace and sipped an entire bottle of any of them. You can find Tablas Creek wines fairly easily in the market, and if you are even in Paso Robles – I suggest looking them up. A smorgasbord for your senses awaits!

Thanks Jason for taking the time to show us around and open up so many treats. Keep up the good work and I look forward to seeing you again soon!

I’m drawing a blanc

Apr 25th, 2011

by winebratsf.

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Blanc did you say? Yes Blanc. As in white. Wine. White wine! I am not the biggest wine wine drinker in general, instead preferring the heartier meat of a red wine, but there are a few white that really rope me in. Specifically, Greanache Blanc. I particularly enjoy GB because it is NOT your average white, it’s nothing like the overblown California chardonnay that I run screaming from, and it’s just plain good.

Grenache Blanc the counterpart to Grenache, or Garnacha, which is classically found in Chateau Neuf de Pape wines from the Rhone. It is unusual to find Grenache Blanc on it’s own outsidede of the US, but particularly in Paso Robles, this single varietal flourishes.

During my recent trip to Paso Robles, when were were visiting some Zinfandel vineyards, we were treated to dinner at Artisan, a local hot spot for dining. Since we were exploring the area’s wines, we thought we’d explore the area’s foods as well! Michael Kobayashi, the owner and general manager, welcomed us like old friends. We sat down to a well varied menu and wine list, which included a particularly good wines by the glass program.

First up, the Paso Robles Wine Commission selected our appetizers - Cayucos Red Abalone - The green apple and tropical fruits in the Halter Ranch, Roussanne/Picpoul/Gren Blanc/Marsanne “Côtes de Paso Blanc” really brought out the flavors of the abalone, and we enjoyed that along with the Ranchero Cellars Grenache Blanc. The Halter Ranch white (and red for that matter) were my faves of the evening, and the white with the honeysuckle, stone fruit and richness topped by a light but noticeable wet river rock flavor were my winning combo. In the Halter Ranch, I tasted white and had tons of nectarine and grapefruit flavors, with a touch of cotton candy and a hint of light caramel, or brown sugar as well as some lovely floral and honeysuckle notes. I probably could have had this wine all night and it was a gorgeous match with the abalone, but didn’t work quite as well with the Pork Belly we also had for an appetzer.

We also ordered the Halter Ranch Cotes de Paso red, which is a blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mouvdre, Couioise, and Cinsault = basically a Rhone mutt. This went beautifully with the pork belly. Before we moved on to mains, I just HAD to order the KILLER gouda and porter fondue. This dish was so amazing that I really wanted to lick the scalding hot cauldron clean. For mains, I had organic chicken, peas and carrots, aligot potatoes, hen of the woods gravy which was simply luscious. With that we continued sipping on several by the glass selections, including another glass of Halter Ranch Cotes de Paso because I loved it so much.

I also tried the Jacob Toft Sarah’s Cuvee, which si a GSM as well. This was a lovely wine but there was just something missing for me. For kicks, and because we were in experimentation mode, we tried the Calcareous, Grenache/Mourvedre as well to see what happens when you leave the syrah out. I think that was it, but I stopped taking notes since iphyoning at the dinner table makes my partner a little testy, so I just enjoyed the lovely food and wine.

Hats off to the people at Artisan. They made our meal an extremely enjoyable experience. So much so, that, the next night after being given the shaft at a local brewery, we went back! There we were, on a Saturday night, with no reservation in a very small town. There was a festival, and we weren’t sure we’d get in. But Mike worked his magic, and the hostess who greeted us remembered us and took care of us immediately. There is something to be said for excellent customer service, on top of excellent food. The second night, I had an off the menu burger (to DIE for) which the waitress from the night before stopped by to suggest to us. I split this with my other half, after enjoying the butter leaf salad, beets, walnuts, Point Reyes Bluer cheesem which was delicate and flavorful. I started with beer, but quickly moved to wine so we could try those that we didn’t have the first night. Of courses, by then we were a bit beat and weary of wine tasting, but it was still a blast.

I can’t wait to go back and see Artisan while down in Paso at Hospices du Rhone! Please do stop by and see Mike and the gang!

The first meal was sponsored by the Paso Robles Wine Commission, The second was on us, but both were worth 10 times as much as we paid!