Fall Cognac Crawl – SF Version

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When I first began my spirit studies in earnest, I knew nothing about Cognac, save for the ancient bottle of Hennessy in my stash, inherited from one friends’ move or another. As time went on, and as I build my cocktail catalog, I learned about the diversity and deliciousness of the amber queen. Enter the marketing genius of the Cognac people, who worked with teams in New York and San Francisco to create a pop up cocktail tour, featuring inspired drinks made with cognac.   But first, a little lesson in Cognac.  Cognac is brandy, distilled in the Cognac region of France.  The prime grape source is Ugni Blanc (Trebbiano in Italian), but a small amount of Colombard and a smattering of lesser grape may also be used. The most important thing to understand about Cognac is the labeling system of classification as, while it does not denote quality, it gives you a clue as to how long it has been aged. V.S. (Very Special) is a blend in which the youngest brandy has been stored for at least two years V.S.O.P. (Very Superior Old Pale) or Reserve is also a blend, but the youngest brandy has be aged for at least four years in a cask. XO (Extra Old) or Napoléon is a blend where the youngest brandy is aged for at least 6 years.  This is changing however, because in 2018, the XO needs to be aged at least 8 years. Hors d’âge (Beyond Age) really is the same as XO, but it’s a great marketing ploy to showcase the highest quality product offering, and gives the appearance of rarity and luxury. Here in San Francisco, our crawl included 5 well known craft cocktail bars, with 5 equally crafty cocktails – all different, all delicious, and all showcasing the flexibility of cognac brandy. First up, we met at Blackbird, a hidden gem in the no man’s land between the . Mission and the Castro, on the upper reaches of Market Street.  At Blackbird, we started our journey with the Carried Away, a refreshing concoction made with Rye Bread-Infused Cognac V.S., Cocchi Torino, Bonal, a splash of Benedictine and a dash of Peychaud’s Bitters – with just a hint of Absinthe to add something interesting.     Next, we wandered down the street to Elixir, one of my favorite whiskey bars in San Francisco.  With over 500 bottles lining the walls, it’s hard to focus on the task at hand, but owner H. has plans for us.   walking out the back door, through the pass through bathroom to what seemed like a speakeasy that never went out of style, we arrived at the Elixir classroom.  Here, H., an avid Cognac fan and educator, led us on a guided tasted of three distinct cognacs. Once we were clear on the foundation of our drink, the mixologists at Elixir treated us to the Elixir of Cognac, a frothy tropically inspired punch with XO Cognac, Crème de Cassis, pineapple gum syrup and lemon juice.  To add the creamy froth, a bit of […]

Cognac ain't whack!

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The first thing that comes to mind when I hear cognac is a certain large scale brand, that is popular with the hip hop set.  You know the drill, they spend a ridiculous amount of cold cash for table service at a Miami nightclub. Here’s what I know about Congac:  I know that cognac is a brandy, made in a specific region of France.  I also know that I’ve had a few delicious examples after some rather decadent French meals. But, that is about all I know about cognac.  Why am I telling you this?  Well because I want to learn!  After all, Cognac is made from wine, and so I really should include it in this wine blog, as I explore all wine regions and try to understand more about the different aspects of distilled spirits made from the grape.  I’m also telling you this because the Cognac Board is holding a contest to send some lucky bloggers to tour the region, and I’d love to go learn more about this particularly unique piece of the world. The specific region where Cognac is made in France is actually the town of Cognac.  Not to be confused with another region nearby that also makes brandy, a distilled brandy calling itself Cognac must be made from specific grapes grown in specific places distilled by specific people.  I think they might be Oompa Loompas actually.  The Cognac region is located on the western center edge of France, spreading out in to the coastal towns.  I don’t blame them for needing brandy!  It gets COLD there! The most commonly used grape is Saint Emilion, aka Ugni Blanc.  What the heck is Ugni Blanc?  Apparently this white grape is also known as Trebbiano and Thalia, and is actually the most widely planted grape in France.  Mind you, most of the wines made from this grape are distilled in to industrial alcohol but well…The other grapes allowed to make the brandy are Folle Blanche and Colombard, but you can eye of newt, and up to 10% of Folignan, Jurançon blanc, Meslier St-François , Sélect, Montils or Sémillon.  Right, so the only grape that I know in there is Semillon.  Time to get studying! The brandy part of Cognac is made by doubly distilling the white wines made from the grapes mentioned above.  The wines start out as very dry, acidic and frankly undrinkable, but by the time you distillit down, it’s nectar.  The first fermentation results in this dry white wine, with only about 8% ABV.  Now the magic happens.  Place said wine in a beautiful copper pot still.  Distill.  Twice!  The result is a clear brandy that is about 70% ABV.  How about that firewater kids! To get the amber silk that is Cognac, the brandy is then distilled in oak casks.  Over two years, the angels get to imbibe in about 3% a year (the Angel’s Share is the amount of wine or other liquid hooch that is lost due to evaporation).  Those must be some very happy angels!  It takes about […]