Here in Italy, where the laws are strict, the yield must not be over 8,000kg per hectare, and the vilification must be done within the specific towns in the production area. Since this area is so small, the yields are limited, making Sagrantino difficult to find and a cult classic.
These rules can be tricky to adhere to, but the results are pure magic, and wines that can be aged for as long, if not longer than Sangiovese due to the high tannin and strong fruit characters.
Umbria offers a unique wine culture. While Tuscany prides itself on wines based on the Sangiovese grape, Umbria in general, and Montefalco and its environs in particular, focus on the indigenous Sagrantino grape.
Here in the heart of Umbria, the Montefalco production area is tiny, approximately 250 acres of rolling hillsides, and only 25 or so producers.
The DOCG Montefalco Sagrantino must be 100% Sagrantino, and the specific yield limits make it a challenge to grow and produce.
In the 2010 Perticaia Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG, they have achieved this with balance and elegance. Azienda Agraria Perticaia prides itself on maintaining the traditions of the past, and is careful to be a thoughtful steward of the land and the ancient grapes.
Today, Perticaia holds over 7 hectares of Sagrantino, which makes them one of the largest single growers in the area. Because the Montefalco DOCG must be 100% Sagrantino, this is a labor of love.
Grapes are hand harvested, and fermented with native yeast, after a long maceration (3 weeks). Aging continues for at least 30 months, as per the DOCG rules, and in the case of the Perticaia, small French oak barrels for 12 months, followed by 12 months in stainless steel, and 12 months in bottle for a total of 36 months prior to release.
The intensely floral aromas have strong tannins that are made more silky by the additional bottle aging, and can age for at least another 10 years. Rich plum notes and smoky leather work well with hard cheese and rich meat dishes, and the spice box has been opened for this beautiful wine.
2011 Colpetrone Rosso di Montefalco DOC – In contrast to the 100% Sagrantino in the Montefalco Sagrantino, the Rosso di Montefalco is required to have at least 60% of Sangiovese, as well at least 10% Sagrantino. Colpetrone, one of the most important wine producers in the Montefalcto DOCG, also hopes to maintain history, and showcase the power and finesse of the Sagrantino grape.
The Colpetrone Rosso di Montefalco is a blend of Sangiovese (at least 60%), Sagrantion (at least 10%) and Merlot, which rounds out the edges with a softness. This was fermented in stainless steel and then aged in stainless steel (60%) as well as French Oak tonneaux and barriques (40%), and blended before bottle aging for four months.
Brilliant notes of anise, cracked black pepper and chocolate shine through dark berries and hard spices. The rich black fig flavors make this a natural pairing for hard cheeses as well as blue cheese, and the medium tannins work well with sausages, and red meat. This is a more casual wine, but still holds the essence of the Sagrantino grape and tipicity. The Rosso is a wine that can be enjoyed ina more causal environment, but is well poised for aging for another five years.
While difficult to find, these wines are a true taste of Umbria, and are great with hearty pasta dishes, meats, and convivial meetings in the piazza.
While I haven’t’ visited this particular area of Italy (yet), I hope to explore more of this unique grape and taste the flavors that it can offer.
Special thanks to the Consorzio Montefalco for providing these two examples of Umbria’s signature grape, a Rosso (blend) and Sagrantino (stand alone).