Recently, I had the pleasure of renewing my love of one of my favorite wineries in Mendocino’s Hopland region. Several years ago, I would make an annual trip up to Hopland Passport, where i was able to enjoy the many tasting rooms in this historical hamlet.
Saracina Vineyards was founded by the original landowners (Fetzer) in 2001, the 400 acre ranch shows off its history in 140 year old olive trees, massive vegetable gardens, and of course, the vineyard.
With the sale of the historic property and Saracina brand in 2018 to Taub Family Selections, the original beautiful property with a heart for sustainability is once again making a name for itself.
Alex MacGregor, the winemaker who has overseen operations since the beginning of the brand, is a consummate story teller and a wealth of wine country history.
Sitting down with Alex and tasting through the wines of Saracina is a delightful walk through Mendocino’s growth, but steadfastness to maintaining a balance of nature, and industry growth in a still rural county.
MacGregor has seen it all at Saracina. Beginning with the original consulting winemaker, David Ramey – the famed David Ramey I should say, MacGregor has stayed on to ensure that the true spirit of the estate come through.
Here, in this historic corner of Mendocino, many of the old vines are still planted.
The history of the Fetzer family in this area goes back nearly 70 years, and this particular property was a large part of their success as the Sundial Ranch, with the original plantings of wine grapes being as far back as 1860s.
Fetzer Sundial Chardonnay is perhaps the single wine that made this region, and lent credibility and cache to the Mendocino wine growing community in the 1980s and 1990s.
This is a critical juncture in sustainability and organic agriculture – Fetzer was farming the land in balance with nature from as early as 1985.
There is a lot of fruit and olives on property as well to practice biodiversity
In 2018, a portion of the original ranch was sold to Taub Family Selections, who is equally intrigued by unique, sustainable and terroir driven properties.
With this partnership, the Saracina property has been slowly changing out vineyard plantings to find the right varieties for this site, replanting and grafting over to create the perfect balance for the climate. Along with the olive orchard, animals, and gardens, Saracina is a true farm, and not just a “wine farm”.
This big picture view of agriculture is both a look at the past, and the way of the future, particularly in a region plagued by drought and wildfire. Focusing the land on the right varietal for the right place, and the right climate requires some of the land to be fallow and to recover, but it will be worth it to see the results, particularly when some of the original plantings here go back to 1942 and much of that rootstock remains.
With the famed Anderson Valley just over the west ridgeline from Saracina, it’s easy to think that this warmer climate valley might not be suitable for the best wine.
However, with the warm days and cool nights, Sauvignon Blanc thrives here. IT’s not the zesty, acidic, enamel peeling New Zealand style, or the lush, tropical Napa style.
Sitting somewhere in between, this refreshing, bright, and delightful 2019 Saracina Lolonis Vinyard Sauvignon Blanc is from the Lolonis Vineyard in Redwood Valley, located north of Ukiah and Clear Lake. Planted in 1942, this vineyard is dry Farmed and organic, this historic property is great for Sav Blanc. This is a clone of Sav Blanc brought in from Sauternes by the founders of the vineyard, and has a distinctly aromatic but balanced note to it.
On the palate, juicy peaches, Meyer lemons and green apple mingle in a sub-tropical dance with lime zest. The fermentation in old oak gives body but no smoke or wood. |$34
One of the best secrets about Saracina is that it is just over the hill from the famed Anderson Valley. As such, they are able to soruce some spectacular fruit for two wines that would be easily twice the price on the other side of the hill.
The 2019 Saracina Valley Foothills Anderson Valley Chardonnay is a creamy, vanilla custard gem full of baked peaches, and apricot. It’s a riper style but clearly still possesses the finesse and acid of Anderson Valley.
Some barrels wen through malolactic fermentation, and were blended with the remainder, and aged in 2 year old oak, leaving a bright, rich, creamy, not buttery or heavy. |$38
2019 Saracina Unoaked Chardonnay
With no malolactic fermentation on this wine, it’s a fresher style with ripe pears, golden delicious apple and fresh nectarine. The clean mineral finish is refreshing on a warm summer day and this Chablis loving wine writer really loved this wine! I really appreciated the lower ABC (13.2%) which, combined with the price tag make it fabulous summer sipper / porch pounder. |$20
2019 Saracina Day ranch Hollywood Hill Anderson Valley Pinot Noir
From the deep end of Anderson Valley, this a cool site that is easily influenced by the fog from the coast. A blend of clones 667 and 115, the earthy cedar notes are a classic reminder of cool climate Pinot. Forest floor, black cherry and mushrooms mingle with rose petals. A classic! |$55
2018 Saracina Skid Row Malbec
Malbec is truly one of my go to winter red wines. There is something about Malbec that is like a warm hug!
This is a relatively new grape for Saracina, planted in 1999.
The bright, bold ruby-garnet color has oodles of blue fruit (classic Malbec), figs, blueberries, and plums with a blanket of cedar chips laying on top. It is not a big bruiser and has soft baking spices that are easy to love. The tannins are soft, which is unusual for a Malbec, and is a delicious slow sipper. |$40
2018 Sacacina Old Soul Red
This workhorse red blend is an easy drinking classic Italian field blend (Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Malbec, Syrah) that pays tribute to the early days of California winemaking, particular with the unique label art.
This wine is just FUN! All juicy bramble berry and chocolate, it’s perfect for a burger or a BBQ.
2018 Sacracina Winters Edge
The Winter Edge is a classic California field blend, something that is a dying breed. These 76 year old vines are a blend of 50% Grenache, 50% Field Blend (in this case, Grenahce, Carignane, and French Colombard). Primarily grown in wild bush trained vineyards, these old ladies are dry farmed and organic.
The French Colombard brings white wine aromatics to what is otherwise a rich red, and it is a bright and inviting wine. There is some serious acid hiding in here, with juicy pomegranate, raspberries and wild strawberries. Ripe plums round out this juicy beast.
Well worth the $30!
Special thanks to Taub Family Selections for the site visit and wonderful experience!
I love it when a plan comes together! One of my favorite things about wine, is tasting the expression of the winemaker in the bottle. Every touch, every decision, every nuance in his or her mind ends up in your glass. Pinot Noir particularly responds
